Revel at the "brand" new competitor in the direct drive Esk8 race!

Vendor Corner (SERIOUS)
1895

have you played with different bushings?

1 Like
1896

I am running softer 85A bushings up front and 91A bushings in the back. Has anyone tried the waterborne surf adapter? It looks interesting.

1897

My suggestion woudl be to stick with front truck geometry that matches the rear truck geometry.

I had two experiences that reinforce this idea:

  1. Installed the Revel Kit on the back and Landwheel L3-x trucks onthe front and the steering and stability was quite poor relative to Revel Kit parts front and back

  2. Installed double hung trucks on the front of a 2WD Revel kit. Seemed super cool for a few runs up and down the street. Then on the third run I encountered a spectacular slow speed wobble that I just barely rode my way through. I went lock to lock about 8 times before the wobble tapered off. I was eyeing the front lawns as a soft place to land but managed to stay upright.

1 Like
1898

Trying to find trucks that are 200mm wide hangar size like the stock front truck but it seems pretty rare. Most on the market are 180mm hangar size. Maybe I will just try to stick to the stock trucks and order a surf adapter for better maneuverability. I’ll keep your advice about the same geometry in mind in case I do find trucks the right size. Thanks!

1 Like
1899

My gut tells me that for the waterborn surf adapter, you also want to get the extender:

I don’t have any first hand experience but Fabi reviewed the two parts together and they worked well together in his video. He has since removed the video. I’m not sure why.

My gut just tells me you want a longer wheel base if you are adding highly responsive steering to the front end.

I don’t have any first hand experience with either part, but I am certainly curious about your resutls. Suit up like a knight in armor anytime you try something new, even at slow speed.

1 Like
1900

Perspective makes the Revel Kit Tarab look like it is gigantic compared to those behid it.

image
image1345×642 301 KB

2 Likes
1901

Pretty much nothing will happen if you run 180s instead of 200s, your track width will be different obviously but this will have no performance consequences(not ones you’ll notice unless you’re sliding or riding at the edge of your grip, anyways), only cosmetic ones.

You don’t need to keep the same geometry between front and back trucks, plenty of the downhill precision trucks use different geometry between front and back and those are obviously very stable.

What you should avoid is having a more agile truck in the back, and since the default revel trucks are quite dead this is very unlikely to happen unless you put some low angle downhill rear trucks in the front, which you obviously shouldn’t do as their name suggests.

If you want to avoid wobbles don’t use tkp/surfskate/double kingpin trucks, as those are designed for agility at slow speed and will wobble easier at faster speed.

I’d recommend paris V2/V3 trucks(paris technically made 200s way back but those should be hard to find by now).

1 Like
1902

I wonder if this thread can/should be migrated to Discord so we can have real actual discussions in RT ? :slight_smile:

1903

have anyone tried to disassemble battery enclosure yet ? Whats inside ?

1904

Many many of them.

Inside you will find the batteries :upside_down_face:

:joy:

3 Likes
1906

do you have pics?
are they servisable ?

1907

Revel does not recommend that you service your own packs, it is a liability hazard and will void warranty unless specifically instructed. Usually only far away or very experienced people open them.

What exactly are you looking for?

1908

fun & trouble :wink:
i am kinda ok with soldering iron

1909

like changing cells couple of years down the road.

1910

That won’t be easy, the cell use spacers and are all welded together. The BMS is also specifically chosen for the cells and is in a discharge configuration. I wouldn’t really recommend changing the cells out, it’s way more trouble than it’s worth

1911

Agree with @ShutterShock. A soldering iron would be of no use. you would need a spot welder and supplies. When the battery eventually wears out, you would have to replace all of the cells for safety. Replacing only a few cells would be unsafe, unbalanced and unwise. you don’t want a mix of old and new cells.

If you are just curious what the insides look like then this thread already contains some battery disection pictures:

Also, if you PM @BearBoi, he has a has dozens more.

2 Likes
1912

this is exactly what i wanted to hear.

standard batteries, nickel sheets. spotwelder.

1913

So i finally have my setup done.

Raynes Killswitch, 100mm Boa’s, TWITCHY AS HELL and no wheel bite.
Actually if i’ll have wheelbite this will be not because of board but because of battery enclosure.

Word of warning though - hanger metal is super brittle. And that roadside “bushing seating” they had in mind is properly destroyed by compressing bushing.

IMG_20200926_153626
IMG_20200926_1536262736×3648 1.91 MB

Also “motor wire shields” is a nice thing, but once again SHORT SCREWS and no threadlock.

if you care to have them 100km down your ride - battleharden them. twice the lenght and optionally threadlock.

p.s. going to send feedback to Jason later this evening.

1914

Questions

  1. Twitchy: is that good or bad?
  2. What is damaged? The recess in the hanger? How? Was the washer hitting the hanger?
  3. How could a soft bushing damage a solid metal hanger
  4. I’ve disassembled and re-assembled mine a dozen times and the wire guards have never vibrated off
  5. did you hit an obstacle?
  6. your bushing looks damaged. Is that from …

I think I just figured this out. It looks like you are running skate park bushings instead of longboard bushings. Consequently, there is nothing holding your hanger on center. Your hanger is damaged from flopping around and gouging against something, possibly the road side washer. You have a small diameter road side washer on now but some of the gouging may have taken place with the original/proper washer. I think you bent and shreadded the original road side washer and replaced it with a skate park sized washer. I suspect the Original road side washer bent into a cup shape and levered up against the wire guard. So you wire guard was effectively crow-barred off from the inside.

So to fix this mess:

  1. purchase proper longboard barrel bushings and a the corresponding full diameter washer.
  2. You may need to polish the inside of your hanger to prevent the next bushing from getting cut up
  3. You need a new wire guard and you may need to drill and tap larger diameter machine screws depending on how much damage you have already done to the hanger.
1915
  1. for my case is its good. i run barrel(93), cone (92) and i like my trucks loose.
  2. please see picture attached
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QSB-DuM6lvcsEd7tmB46hVaBLmD5cZ8x/view?usp=sharing
  3. how can water cut metal ? enough compression :wink:
  4. still i suggest using at very least 5 or 7mm screws
  5. no, all happened while i was stationary in my garage.
  6. i honestly fail to see any damage on the bushing.

oringinal washers are intact, my first idea was its that its a washer deed, i just rechecked no dents or deformations on the washers. i replaced it with smaller washer because its actually what comes on a top of cone bushing if you want it to work well.

  1. i have like a dozen of barrels. barrel/cone is what works for me
  2. that is the plan. i am more concerned about wires then about bushings.
  3. larger lenght screws work just fine.