My gut tells me that for the waterborn surf adapter, you also want to get the extender:
I don’t have any first hand experience but Fabi reviewed the two parts together and they worked well together in his video. He has since removed the video. I’m not sure why.
My gut just tells me you want a longer wheel base if you are adding highly responsive steering to the front end.
I don’t have any first hand experience with either part, but I am certainly curious about your resutls. Suit up like a knight in armor anytime you try something new, even at slow speed.
Pretty much nothing will happen if you run 180s instead of 200s, your track width will be different obviously but this will have no performance consequences(not ones you’ll notice unless you’re sliding or riding at the edge of your grip, anyways), only cosmetic ones.
You don’t need to keep the same geometry between front and back trucks, plenty of the downhill precision trucks use different geometry between front and back and those are obviously very stable.
What you should avoid is having a more agile truck in the back, and since the default revel trucks are quite dead this is very unlikely to happen unless you put some low angle downhill rear trucks in the front, which you obviously shouldn’t do as their name suggests.
If you want to avoid wobbles don’t use tkp/surfskate/double kingpin trucks, as those are designed for agility at slow speed and will wobble easier at faster speed.
I’d recommend paris V2/V3 trucks(paris technically made 200s way back but those should be hard to find by now).
Revel does not recommend that you service your own packs, it is a liability hazard and will void warranty unless specifically instructed. Usually only far away or very experienced people open them.
That won’t be easy, the cell use spacers and are all welded together. The BMS is also specifically chosen for the cells and is in a discharge configuration. I wouldn’t really recommend changing the cells out, it’s way more trouble than it’s worth
Agree with @ShutterShock. A soldering iron would be of no use. you would need a spot welder and supplies. When the battery eventually wears out, you would have to replace all of the cells for safety. Replacing only a few cells would be unsafe, unbalanced and unwise. you don’t want a mix of old and new cells.
If you are just curious what the insides look like then this thread already contains some battery disection pictures:
Also, if you PM @BearBoi, he has a has dozens more.
Raynes Killswitch, 100mm Boa’s, TWITCHY AS HELL and no wheel bite.
Actually if i’ll have wheelbite this will be not because of board but because of battery enclosure.
Word of warning though - hanger metal is super brittle. And that roadside “bushing seating” they had in mind is properly destroyed by compressing bushing.
What is damaged? The recess in the hanger? How? Was the washer hitting the hanger?
How could a soft bushing damage a solid metal hanger
I’ve disassembled and re-assembled mine a dozen times and the wire guards have never vibrated off
did you hit an obstacle?
your bushing looks damaged. Is that from …
I think I just figured this out. It looks like you are running skate park bushings instead of longboard bushings. Consequently, there is nothing holding your hanger on center. Your hanger is damaged from flopping around and gouging against something, possibly the road side washer. You have a small diameter road side washer on now but some of the gouging may have taken place with the original/proper washer. I think you bent and shreadded the original road side washer and replaced it with a skate park sized washer. I suspect the Original road side washer bent into a cup shape and levered up against the wire guard. So you wire guard was effectively crow-barred off from the inside.
So to fix this mess:
purchase proper longboard barrel bushings and a the corresponding full diameter washer.
You may need to polish the inside of your hanger to prevent the next bushing from getting cut up
You need a new wire guard and you may need to drill and tap larger diameter machine screws depending on how much damage you have already done to the hanger.
still i suggest using at very least 5 or 7mm screws
no, all happened while i was stationary in my garage.
i honestly fail to see any damage on the bushing.
oringinal washers are intact, my first idea was its that its a washer deed, i just rechecked no dents or deformations on the washers. i replaced it with smaller washer because its actually what comes on a top of cone bushing if you want it to work well.
i have like a dozen of barrels. barrel/cone is what works for me
that is the plan. i am more concerned about wires then about bushings.
to resummarize:
the only damage done is walls of the bushings seat because you dont build 1mm think wall of a brittle metal around compressing bushings. is you want to see what proper bushing seat looks like - flip the hanger.
as for default bolts replacement - its just my fear of losing wireguards. i dont trust 2mm long bolts, especially in high-vibrations environment. i highly this replacement to everyone before.
the whole situation can be much worse if the brittle metal cut into motor wires.
DO CHECK YOUR BOARD OFTEN, especially after a change.
original washer and wireguard bolt (undamaged), replacement longer bolt.
wireguard itself is undamaged. i checked geometry with softer bushings - there is no way kingpin will “crowbar” shield from inside. this part of engineering is well done.
Ok, that’s a clearer picture so i’m going to modify my theory and observation.
The undersized pivot busing diameter has resulted in tremendous metal on metal impact between the pivot bolt and the lower edge of the hanger hole. In addition to the impact, there is also a prybar effect between the two parts. You have completely destroyed the hanger by substituting improper, undersized bushings. I’m guessing the mis-matched parts may also have been undertightened.
What has happened to your hanger has never happened to any of the hundreds of revel kits (I’m extrapolating from this thread).
Your water analogy would make sense if the bushing was liquified, mixed with abrasive, pumped at 20,000 psi through a pin hole nozzel and flowing at the rate of thousands of bushings per second.
Urethane does not crush and cut through cast metal.
Can you remove the nut, washer and bushing so that we can see the condition of the hanger and pivot nut.
I’m noticing that you have impact damage at 11:00, 1:00, 5:00 and 7:00.
So my original theory of the damage being caused by the lower washer may also be valid.
Not dozens but I have a few. I live outside the service area of Revel, and I rely on my board to take me everywhere, any time. So I have broken many battery packs in many ways.
Yup, they are pretty standard, I don’t think anyone has rebuilt a battery yet though. They are also in my opinion fairly priced. $250 for 10s 2p Sony US1860VTV6 with BMS, labor, casing, USB port, and 6 month warranty, well documented. The cells themselves cost ~$150 unless you buy in bulk or get a great deal. (Of course Revel are able to buy in bulk so this is not what they pay)
but I have a few. I live outside the service area of Revel, and I rely on my board to take me everywhere, any time. So I have broken many battery packs in many ways.