Revel at the "brand" new competitor in the direct drive Esk8 race!

to resummarize:
the only damage done is walls of the bushings seat because you dont build 1mm think wall of a brittle metal around compressing bushings. is you want to see what proper bushing seat looks like - flip the hanger.

as for default bolts replacement - its just my fear of losing wireguards. i dont trust 2mm long bolts, especially in high-vibrations environment. i highly this replacement to everyone before.

the whole situation can be much worse if the brittle metal cut into motor wires.
DO CHECK YOUR BOARD OFTEN, especially after a change.

some more pictures:

damage

original washer and wireguard bolt (undamaged), replacement longer bolt.
wireguard itself is undamaged. i checked geometry with softer bushings - there is no way kingpin will “crowbar” shield from inside. this part of engineering is well done.

Ok, that’s a clearer picture so i’m going to modify my theory and observation.

The undersized pivot busing diameter has resulted in tremendous metal on metal impact between the pivot bolt and the lower edge of the hanger hole. In addition to the impact, there is also a prybar effect between the two parts. You have completely destroyed the hanger by substituting improper, undersized bushings. I’m guessing the mis-matched parts may also have been undertightened.

What has happened to your hanger has never happened to any of the hundreds of revel kits (I’m extrapolating from this thread).

Your water analogy would make sense if the bushing was liquified, mixed with abrasive, pumped at 20,000 psi through a pin hole nozzel and flowing at the rate of thousands of bushings per second.

Urethane does not crush and cut through cast metal.

Can you remove the nut, washer and bushing so that we can see the condition of the hanger and pivot nut.

I’m noticing that you have impact damage at 11:00, 1:00, 5:00 and 7:00.

So my original theory of the damage being caused by the lower washer may also be valid.

@ShutterShock Can you add your thoughts?

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@melanor9

Not dozens :sweat_smile: but I have a few. I live outside the service area of Revel, and I rely on my board to take me everywhere, any time. So I have broken many battery packs in many ways.

Yup, they are pretty standard, I don’t think anyone has rebuilt a battery yet though. They are also in my opinion fairly priced. $250 for 10s 2p Sony US1860VTV6 with BMS, labor, casing, USB port, and 6 month warranty, well documented. The cells themselves cost ~$150 unless you buy in bulk or get a great deal. (Of course Revel are able to buy in bulk so this is not what they pay)

i am just dont like idea of revel stopping production and all of us hanging high and dry.

You could say the same thing about anything with a removable battery lol

I have no idea what happened to your setup without seeing it in person, hard to tell from your explanation and pictures. Obviously the urethane can’t cut metal. I have seen those wireguard bolts come out before, some of the earlier production ones had short screws, but those were switched to longer ones later.

I have no idea how any of this damage could have happened stationary in your garage

if its removable - its replaceable. question is - can you find a placement ? :slight_smile:

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If I reach out to Revel support, what would be considered a reasonable number of days to wait for a response?

Idk after a week I would email them again

I have emailed them 3 times within the past week and they have yet to respond. The issue I am having is that the battery will cut out at around 40% and I lose the ability to brake. I am not sure what is causing the issue, maybe the cells need balancing? I had previously sent my battery back to Revel to get it tested, then they sent it back and said they could not find anything wrong with it. Someone on Trustpilot had this exact issue where it would die at two bars so I do not understand how they could not identify the issue with my battery even though they had dealt with it before. Any suggestions?

Trust pilot is just a bunch of people that have problems complaining - no one actually goes on Trust pilot to give a company a good review from what I see most of the time

Anyway, I think I may have been the one that looked at your pack. I seriously took the whole thing apart and checked every connection in it. I have seen issues like that before and been able to reproduce them, and solve them. It slips my mind if we sent you a new pack or not. I think we may have.

Does your issue consistently happen at 40% battery? And it only happens when you are braking? Has it ever lost power at other times? In the 100+ packs I’ve looked at, I’ve only seen one out of balance and that one was a 2017 battery pack.

I just figured I would mention the trust pilot bit since the person’s battery died at 2 bars, sent it in for repair and they sent it back with the same issue. The same thing happened to me. To be fair, when I initially sent it in I did not know what the issue was and I just assumed the battery shut off due to vibration. When I got it back I realized that it was consistently shutting off at 40% (happened 3 times). To clarify, it does not happened when I break but I do lose breaking at 40% due to the board shutting off abruptly. I am wondering what might cause this and I found it interesting that someone elses battery was shutting off at the same percentage.

Interesting. It may just be a coincidence. None of the batteries I looked at had issues with shutting off on braking, it was always just like when you accelerate or if you tried to ride at all, or with road cracks.

When I tested batteries after repair I always mashed the accelerator and brakes too. Weird that it got through that. Can you take a picture of the back of the battery with the sticker on it? I want to know what batch yours was, I think your first one was a V2, but it likely was replaced with a V3.

It shuts off when accelerating. What I meant was that since the kit turns off, I lose braking.

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Ah man that sucks. I’ll check on what the issue was with that particular battery haha

How comfortable would you be with opening it yourself?

I’m comfortable with opening it.

Do you think you could open it up and take some pictures? Be careful when you open it because it should be a V1 battery with the USB board screwed to the upper shell. I have a technician guide that I wrote if you need extra assistance with opening it, but it is fairly simple.

If you can, take the pictures in a well lit area

Okay, I am opening it right now.

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Looks pretty normal to me, can you take some pictures closer to the connections?

You can also gently pull back the tape to show the balance wires