Exactly. The motors are still hot so they just shut off right away again. Been there for sure and just had to wait a bit for them to cool off and take it slow after that.
Also to add… I have only had this issue in 2WD. Has not happened to me with 4WD
Well yeah not as much load in 4wd. We’ve had people cut the temp sensors before in the older boards but on the newer ones the temp sensors aren’t connected.
I don’t have temp sensors on my diy either, no point really.
this was at night, pretty chilly, prolly around 20 degrees celsius.
The motors weren’t feeling hot at all, like I touched them once before after a longer cruise and they were feeling hotter then.
Would be great if the kit would give a warning about the motors overheating because it’s a bit sketchy to just suddenly lose power without warning.
Could be a different issue
So a few comments and questions:
Questions:
2WD?
Wheel Size?
Comments:
That said, read my next two posts because the issue might not be your temperature sensors.
I had a second set of related comments…
I’m not sure how steep and long a hill needs to be to trigger a temperature sensor shut down. Maybe its not much and the temperature sensors are just a nuisance.
That said, I wanted to point out that if you live in an area with steep hills, you really should be riding 4WD. The reason is that steep and/or prolonged decents will recharge your battery at roughly 8x the wall charger rate.
Jason has done alot to the ESC to protect riders from sudden loss of power and to maintain brakes for riders in emergency circumstances. Even still, small batteries have limits and its hard to say what those limits are until its too late.
With a 4WD kit, you get the following safety benefits:
So I don’t know how severe your terrain is. But if it is, think ahead and upgrade to 4WD because if the only thing you do is cut your sensor wires – that might have consequences.
So it could also be a BMS/battery triggered fault. That’s certainly a possibility for 2WD rider traveling steep hills. Larger wheels could be an aggrevating factor.
If the BMS detects an overcharge or over temperature condition in any of the cell groups then I believe the BMS will reduce power to the ESC. This allows the ESC to provide braking. The ESC is unable to provide acceleration until the BMS restores full voltage to the ESC.
I’m pretty sure that’s the way the BMS and ESC work together when the BMS detects a battey fault.
Note that the ESC does not get any advanced warning from the BMS and the BMS does not communicate with the remote. So this scenario would match up with the Remote not providing the user of any advanced warning of the partial shut down.
Just incase it sounds like i’m criticizing the Revel Kit for some kind of poorly engineered communication between the BMS and the ESC…that is absoloutely not what i’m saying.
I’m actually saying the opposite. It is standard across almost the entire esk8 industry for there to be zero communicaton between the BMS and the ESC. The typical scenario is that the BMS shuts down the power without any warning and the rider is suddenly totally helpless to brake.
Jason might be the only one in the industry to put together a system that maintains brakes in the event of the BMS detecting a battery error.
He did that despite the fact that they just don’t make a BMS that can communicate with the ESC. You will find a BMS that can communicate detailed battery condition information to a cell phone app. But so far, I don’t think you could find an example of that information being shared with a remote or an esc.
Even the highly computerized Onewheels have a Controller and a BMS that operate completely independently. The only comunication between the two devices is the positive and negative leads. The OneWheel BMS progressively chokes off the voltage if it detects a battery error. That gives the Onewheel controller about 30 - 60 seconds to decelerate and land the tail on the ground. That works out on flat ground. I imagine it’s not so great on a hill. Also not so great at top speed.
2WD with default wheels
according to google maps the uphill section was 1km long with 70m of elevation change, so roughly a 7 degree grade, should be well within the capabilities of the kit I feel like.
I live in a somewhat hilly area although my usual route doesn’t include a lot of intense elevation changes, and even when I did hit hills with my previous board(wowgo 3) it handled them just fine so didn’t expect to run into these kinds of problems with this board.
I get that the 4WD is superior performance wise but it’s also almost 2 times as expensive and heavier/less compact.
So, I see a few possibilities:
@ShutterShock What are you thinking?
Gonna guess that the battery probably has a connection that vibrated apart and then settled again
You picked Option 2 which I agree has the highest probability.
Option 3 is less likely but still quite possible.
I’d like @Pixhehexd to do the same run a few more times but start the ride with a battery that is less than full.
@Pixhehexd,
You can deplete the battery to 3/4 by riding on the the grass. 50 to 100 feet should do it.
If you have the same problem recurr in one of your 1 kilometer runs then almost for certain, it’s an intermittent battery connection.
If you cannot reproduce the problem across a dozen test runs (starting each at 3/4 battery) then I bet your battery is fine and Option 3 would explain what you experienced.
I hope its Option 3 because that means you don’t need any repairs and won’t be without a ride while you wait for couriers.
Can you do a few test runs and get back to us?
Remember that if you live at the top of a hill, even a small hill, its a good idea to deplete your battery a little before you start off.
Yo, dumb suggestion to check but… Are your deck and/or baseplate warped / twisted ? Cause a random cause would be your trucks and deck are fighting each other to go straight and it becomes noticeable only above a certain speed?
I got the exaggerated symptom at lower speed on a drop deck (say 22-25kmh) and solved it by inserting a lateral angled riser on one side.
@pkasanda I got a question you might be able to help? Looking to remove the tiny screws on the inner can of Landwheel motors. Pretty similar to the Revel ones. Bolts are stuck enough to strip a screwdriver. Maybe glue or else in the threads.
Between the 3 decks that I tried probably not. Don’t think the baseplate is warped either. I get my new bushings and pivot cups this week in the mail so I’ll let you know how that goes.
The answer is here:
My cloudwheels finally arrived a couple days ago after there was a mis-delivery. I contacted Iwonder and I’m not sure who it was but they went out of their way to contact the distributor and get the package to my door. Very good customer support as they kept sending me emails and letting me know what was happening. As for the wheels I really like them. I feel like the silver surfer. I’m stealthy quiet and can finally go over potholes, small curbs, gravel & sand patches without slowing down too much.
Also, I can add to the remote not being accurate for speed. I was going 46km/h at one point on my gps but the remote said I was going 37km/h. Way off, and I had my wheel diameter set properly on the remote.
My adapters just shipped today so I will be joining the Cloudwheel gang soon! And I am now 100% sure I did not have any speed issues. I appreciate all the helpful tips tho. Now I know proper maintenance. I went up to 26mph on stock 90mm Revel wheels yesterday according to my phone and my friend riding alongside me on a meepo.
Battery was about right on edge between 3 and 4 bars, not really that close to full(I didn’t fully charge it and already rode a couple kilometers before), but also not depleted to a point where I’d expect sag.
I’d be surprised if it was some sort of connection issue because this road was extremely smooth.
Cloudwheel gang 
But on another note…
I have a stripped middle screw on my kit. (The one under the label) and I can’t get it out. I have tried all the old wives tales methods of rubber bands, balloons, degreasers etc, it just does not want to come out.
Any recommendations here? Is it possible to get into the electronics from the back of the kit or such?
Conducted another 100+ Mile Endurance Ride with the 4WD Revel Kit.
Drives & extra batteries performed flawlessly.
Biggest issue was keeping the remote battery going. I keep another one on me & swapped to it at one point but one of my drives is finicky about going into pairing mode. Took about 10 mins of playing with the switch.
Super fun ride.
If anybody says the Revel kits aren’t durable they’re lying.
