Revel at the "brand" new competitor in the direct drive Esk8 race!

@Chazamataz, So it seems you have had bad luck with bateries. That’s unfortunate.

I don’t think you have had any esc problems. If the nickle strips break on a battery, there is no reason that it would not still work as a USB power bank. A broken nickle strip can knock the battery down to below 36 volts. That’s not enough to power the ESC. It’s pleanty to power a USB. Also, if you deplete the battery with USB, its no surprise that it would turn the charging brick light red and run through a charge cycle. The BMS would stop the charging when all of the connected banks of series cells reach their peak voltage. Any banks that are interupted by a broken nickle strip would not charge and your end of charge voltage would be too low to power the ESC but high enough to power USB. I hope this helps you to understand how a broken battery could still function as a power bank.

So @Chazamataz, Lets talk about the quantity of broken batteries that you have encountered. I think it totals three so far. Batteries should not break so soon. There were problems with the durability of the nickle strips. Obviously, I’m not going to blame you for your batteries breaking within warranty.

However, I can’t help but wonder about the possibility that some aspect of your roads or your set-up is aggrevating the weaknesses of the early batches of batteries. Three out of four broken batteries is an extremely high failure rate for one customer to have.

So lets talk about the possibility that your batteries have endured higher vibration than most customers. This is not necessarily true, but it is a possibility.

Road quality is one potential factor. If your roads are particularly poor in terms of dimpling, cracks and pot-holes, you should be doing more to reduce vibration. Doing so would make the ride much more comfortable foryour feet, knees and might put you in a place where your remaining working battery and you replacement batteries could last for five to ten years. I’m sure your goal is to have your batteries last longer than just the one year warrantee period.

Another potential vibration issue is that certain decks can set up a jack hammer effect between the deck and the backing plate of the drive. For example, I have found that a cambered, flexible deck like a Vanguard can result in this jackhammering. As the board flexes (alot) the tip of the drive swings clear of the deck and then returns with a hammer like impact. Surprisingly, some young riders can handle the vibration like it’s no big thing. For an older rider like mysef, the vibration is unbearable. Changes to the set-up can fix the vibration.

I’ve seen similar jackhammering on flat (not cambered) decks that are quite stiff. There is very litte flex but just enough for the drive to swing away from the deck and then slap back into place. The Tarab is an example of a stiff deck that can experience this type of slapping.

In either case, the solution to ride comfort is one of two things. You either need to introduce a thicker neoprene pad, or you need to use considerable rubber riser height to create a large enough gap that the pendulum action of the drive never impacts the deck.

For me, I find that a 5/8 inch thick anti vibration pad like this one does the trick.

It works for both the Vanguard and Tarib types of hammering and slapping.

Larger diameter softer durometer wheels or Discovery cloud wheels can also do alot to reduce vibration.

If your pavement quality is extremely poor and if you are strong enough to lift a very heavy set-up, then double trucks can do a remarkable job of smoothing out your ride over cracked and dimpled pavement.

If you want to learn more about reducing vibration, search this thread for “anti-vibration”

@Chazamataz, You also mentioned that one of your kits has motors that are louder than the other. Make sure that you are lubricating both motor bearings and wheel bearings frequently. It is always possible that a fresh out of the box system has underlubricated bearings. Dusty and/or damp road conditions may require you to lubricate every week or even more frequently such as immediately after a damp ride. Search this thread for “lubricat”, there are lots of posts on this topic including methods for cleaning bearings prior to lubrication. you don’t want the lubrication process to wash grit into the interior of the bearings.

Anybody else in USA had their discovery cloud wheel adapters for the revel kit shipped yet?

I just got back from a ride 4 hours ago. Waited two hours before charging my batteries. And I checked on them an hour into charging and found one of them with a pretty big crack in the case. Should I be scared it might leak or catch fire? I did not see any cracks when putting the battery on charge. I took the battery out of the house and put it in the garage away from anything that can catch fire.

Looks like it could be an impact or stress crack as opposed to due to bulging from within. I would suggest doing a voltage test. If it is above 36 volts that would be some confirmation that there is no damage to the batteries. If you don’t have a volt meter, then you could insert the battery and try to power up the drive. That would also confirm > 36 volts. If you have healthy voltage, it is unlikely that a cell has the type of damage that would cause it to expand.

@ShutterShock do you concur? …and what do you think would be the next step?

@sadabnyc, can we see a picture of the opposite end of the battery. Flip it upside down and take a few shots at 45 degrees to the release button and USB port. A short video would be even better. Start at the crack, flip the battery and pan around the angles that are 45 degrees to the USB port.

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I highly doubt that this is from charging haha I’ve never seen an 18650 buldge, that has to be from riding

Even at that I’ve only seen one person break a battery like that and that individual broke like 5 of them

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You guys are right the battery doesn’t look swollen. Maybe I am just paranoid bcs I saw a damaged battery while it was charging and panicked. Here is the video. The battery powers the board just fine all the way up to 31mph unloaded like usual on a full charge. I don’t remember hitting anything hard enough to damage the battery case tho. Also riding with a cracked battery case is definitely a problem right?

I mean yeah I honestly don’t know how these break, I have only seen one person have a broken one and somehow that person broke more than one like this. I haven’t even come close to breaking one before.

The damaged battery tray can be a problem though because if the battery starts flexing too much because of the case give, it could damage some of the connections. What kind of roads do you ride on normally and with what wheels?

Oops looks like iphone videos don’'t play on PC. I’ll reupload as .mp4

And the roads I ride on are usually smooth since I ride inside parks. I avoid main roads bcs of potholes. I am currently on 90mm 78A Ollin Popoca wheels. Previously used Revel 90mm stock wheels.

I emailed support after I made the post so I’ll wait and see what they say about the cracked case. But thanks for the reassurance that its not from a battery expansion or something. I panicked when I saw the crack and I am just super paranoid about batteries.

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@ShutterShock Is it pretty easy to replace the top tray? or not?

I did not see any sever signs of impact on the battery, Just one small scrape on the bottom front.

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Haha no you’re good. Yeah if you mention “Ryan Berardelli also looked at this” or something, they will know that it’s legit

I would only be concerned about the longevity of it or more future damage from the compromised case. @pkasanda it depends on what version the battery is. The upper shell is easy to replace on all of them, but the one with the contacts can be either impossible or easy depending on the version. It is likely that the battery would need to be serviced by Revel (probably me) or replaced haha

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I received my unit last month so its probably one of the latest versions. I’ll wait for their email reply and mention what you said. Thanks!

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I have this same exact issue along with another user on here.

I’ve tried different things as well. The only thing left for me to do is to not be lazy and clean and lube my motors, as well as try a few harder duros i have around.

Couple days ago I was going uphill for about 1km(decently steep) on my 2WD kit, XT range battery almost fully charged, full throttle on mode 3 going about 20kmh according to the remote, everything was going fine, the kit was pulling very nicely, until suddenly the motors completely stopped pulling, no warning on the remote or anything. I stopped and the motors weren’t even spinning up without any weight on them. Neither the battery or the motors were feeling hot to the touch.

I restarted both the board and the remote and it was barely crawling, pushed for like 100 meters, did another restart and everything was working again just fine(but from there I wasn’t going uphill anymore).

Is this normal? I mean I understand that the board will overheat under heavy load(although I kinda expected it to handle more than this) but a complete power cut without warning is pretty sketchy.

Was it hot out at the time? I suspect your motor overheated. Mine have shut off when it’s really hot out and I go up a steep hill. I think they shut off past a certain temp to preserve the motors.

Did you try touching the motors? I find mine get quite hot when doing hills, I could see temperature being an issue if it was hot out, but that may be a serviceable issue.

Pixhehexd did mention they were not hot to the touch which is interesting. When it has happened to me I could still touch the motor but it was pretty hot. For me I figured out after a few times of this happening it was on a hot day and going up steep hills is what caused this to happen.

Something to note is that I could still use the brakes but I can’t give any acceleration until I reset it and it cools down again or else the same thing happens again. It sounds like the same thing that happened IMO.

I have definitely had times where I couldn’t pass the three second test on the motors haha