Revel at the "brand" new competitor in the direct drive Esk8 race!

For anyone interested, this is what the inside of a 216wh revel kit battery looks like.
I saw discussions back and forth earlier about the type of batteries. This has more or less been confirmed since then, but I have seen no one take the time to disect one. I can confirm that they are Samsung 30Q cells in 10s2p configuration.

The white goo is an insulator used both in the batteries and inside the kit itself. (The little bit of goo on top of one of the batteries is not a leak… Just more of the same insulator)

I do NOT recommend opening your own batteries… Simply because revelboard do not recommend this. But if you do, I’m curious if you have the same/different wear. And perhaps we can learn from each other.

As you can maybe tell, there is dust and some light corrosion starting to form on/around some of the terminals. This is a big no no, and I wish I caught it earlier. This is not something I blame the batteries for. I live in Sweden, I rode in winter conditions. This means salted roads and mud…

Overall this battery still works fine, some lost range from harsh conditions but no sudden shutdowns or issues.
I have cleaned off the outer corrosion to the best of my abilities.

This is my other battery…

It is in worse shape…
Here there is no corrosion on the terminals which is good! (Still dust, but no corrosion) but two other problems. First off the shielding tape is missing on one side. I did NOT take this off. It was never put on from the factory.
More importantly, the soldering to a critical wire has snapped off. It was only held on by a thin layer of tin at the top.

Both battery packs have burned holes through the protective tape. I assume I am not the only one with this problem?

If someone decides to open their batteries I take no responsibility. But if you do, it is important to know that the wires connecting the USB-port are thin and fragile, be careful and lift slowly. Also make sure they are out of the way when screwing back together. Don’t make the same mistakes the guys at the factory did with my broken battery… The screws graced the wires and they are frayed. (Not my fault) but it still works.
The screws are Philips #1. You will need a long thin screwdriver for the deep holes, an even thinner screwdriver for the corner screws.
I am not an expert at all, I am not sure how dangerous this is, so treat it with caution. I used gloves and tweezers when touching wires. I cleaned battery corrosion and the BMS with isopropyl alcohol. I had no issues.

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