@RipTideSports Brad to the rescue
@BearBoi can you give me the dimensions of the bushings that work in your trucks? Pictures of the trucks would also help and the effective base plate angles when mounted to the board. Please excuse me not searching the 623 messages if this information is mentioned above.
I see @RipTideSports already to the rescue. For future reference hop on into this thread give it a read. Useful information throughout.
That shouldnāt make a difference.
Each cell is rated to be discharged to 3v.
On heavy load (fast accelerating on mode 4, hill, etc) there is voltage sag.
Say your battery is low at 3.2v/cell. When you throttle hard, it drops to 3.1v and vibrates. If you ignore it and keep going hard, it will hit 3.0v and ācut offā immediately. The cell will now bounce back to 3.15v because the load is gone. If you then change to mode 1 and go easy on the throttle, the board will sag to maybe 3.1v and continue to work until it is depleted.
Even after it hits 3.0v on mode 1 going slowly. After you stop itāll bounce back to 3.05v. if you wanted to, you can still run the motors with no load on a bench until it doesnāt bounce back anymore and stays at the 3.0v cutoff.
This is still within the rated discharge of the cell and itād work perfectly fine the next time you use it. Your electric chainsaw probably had a crappy BMS cutoff settings.
This isnāt even going to the technically rated 2.8v/cell but not recommended to do that often because the last 15% and the top 15% of the cell degrades, etc.
And I am assuming the revel kit esc cuts off at 3.0v/cell (at least) and not 2.8v.
The barrel is 1,45cm tall with a diameter of 2,5cm
The cone is 1,4cm tall with a diameter of 2,4cm/1.8cm
I think they were slightly taller from factory, they are visibly warped.
I always overtightened the bushings. I wonder if 2x barrels are better for me, at the same time I like the characteristics of these when they were new and tight. Perhaps higher hardness, or larger size? You are the expert.
on my revel i used first a combo cone and barrel but i ended up with a double barrel 97a riptide.
It does. You will wreck any battery if you ignore the critical voltage warning, slow down, wait for the voltage to recover and keep riding. Drill, chainsaw, skateboard, etc. You can destroy the battery on a single ālong range testā ride. Remember that if you damage even a single cell, the enitre battery is compromised. A compromised battery can loose voltage very fast in ways that can be dangerous.
A critical voltage alarm is a warning that riders should not ignore. Automated power downs are an even more important warning. Never restart and continue to ride a board that has powered itself down due to low voltage.
If you find yourself overtightening the cone/barrel combination then switching to two barrels is probably a good idea. Iām in the exact same boat as you. I have 95a cone/barrels. I canāt get them stiff enough for my tastes so now I want double barrel bushings and perhaps 97a or even harder.
For anyone interested, this is what the inside of a 216wh revel kit battery looks like.
I saw discussions back and forth earlier about the type of batteries. This has more or less been confirmed since then, but I have seen no one take the time to disect one. I can confirm that they are Samsung 30Q cells in 10s2p configuration.
The white goo is an insulator used both in the batteries and inside the kit itself. (The little bit of goo on top of one of the batteries is not a leakā¦ Just more of the same insulator)
I do NOT recommend opening your own batteriesā¦ Simply because revelboard do not recommend this. But if you do, Iām curious if you have the same/different wear. And perhaps we can learn from each other.
As you can maybe tell, there is dust and some light corrosion starting to form on/around some of the terminals. This is a big no no, and I wish I caught it earlier. This is not something I blame the batteries for. I live in Sweden, I rode in winter conditions. This means salted roads and mudā¦
Overall this battery still works fine, some lost range from harsh conditions but no sudden shutdowns or issues.
I have cleaned off the outer corrosion to the best of my abilities.
This is my other batteryā¦
It is in worse shapeā¦
Here there is no corrosion on the terminals which is good! (Still dust, but no corrosion) but two other problems. First off the shielding tape is missing on one side. I did NOT take this off. It was never put on from the factory.
More importantly, the soldering to a critical wire has snapped off. It was only held on by a thin layer of tin at the top.
Both battery packs have burned holes through the protective tape. I assume I am not the only one with this problem?
If someone decides to open their batteries I take no responsibility. But if you do, it is important to know that the wires connecting the USB-port are thin and fragile, be careful and lift slowly. Also make sure they are out of the way when screwing back together. Donāt make the same mistakes the guys at the factory did with my broken batteryā¦ The screws graced the wires and they are frayed. (Not my fault) but it still works.
The screws are Philips #1. You will need a long thin screwdriver for the deep holes, an even thinner screwdriver for the corner screws.
I am not an expert at all, I am not sure how dangerous this is, so treat it with caution. I used gloves and tweezers when touching wires. I cleaned battery corrosion and the BMS with isopropyl alcohol. I had no issues.
I am reluctant to hijack this thread into a bushing thread so please post your questions here: Bushing and Truck Setup Help Offered and I will answer them there also so everyone can benefit.
So I deleted and re-posted to your thread.
This is correct. Any voltage ārecoveredā after voltage sag can be used until voltage at rest is at the minimum (2.5v for 30Q). No BMS will allow resting voltage of a cell to go below that and turn back on.
@murdomeek
If you follow that advice you will almost certainly damage your batteries and/or greatly reduce your range. Following the advice of BP, you would also be doing the exact opposite as is recommended by respected esk8 manufacturers including Boostedboards and Onewheel. They both say to promptly come to a safe stop as soon as possible after a low battery warning (Beep or kickup). The Revel kit manual does not include these instructions but it should.
BP is a troll who visits different threads pretending to know stuff. He recently accused the owner of metroboards of not knowing how to tighten axle nuts. BP is often wrong and typically turns to insulting people when he is found out. Iām sure the pattern of insults will be confirmed in his next post to this thread. He is currently trolling me and others in other threads.
Iām giving you the benefit of my experience using lithium battries. Most of my lithium batteries are in peak condition up to five years after purchase. This includes Boosted boards, my original Onewheel and all but one of my Ego power tool batteries.
The only damaged batteries are the ones that I over depeleted by ignoring battery warnings, waiting for the voltage to recover and then running on recovered voltage. This was before I knew any better.
I donāt want to repeat all the information in my previous post but i have real experience with batteries malfunctioning the next day after running past battery alerts. These experienced include an Ego chainsaw battery and a long range test that I did with my first two L3-x batteries. Since revising the way that I use lithium batteries, I have had no other failures. I have eight L3-x battereis that are in perfet condition. Also have 10 ego batteries that are in perfect conditon. These are each three to five years old.
Batteries are expensive. They can last for five to ten years if you use them right. But they usually only have a six month warranty. So stay well above critical voltage and you will have more fun and spend less.
Here is an excerpts from the EGO battery manual. Notice that they suggest immediate charging after a low battery warning. The flashing red light usually happens long before the power cut-off.
If you ignore the warnings, you risk damaging your battery.
Nice, vague user manual. What is the cutoff of that BMS? What cells are they and what is their voltage sag at what amp draw? Wtf is ārecovered voltageā? Cells donāt recover voltage, they sag under load then go back to a resting voltage when not under load. Have you ever looked at a discharge curve of any battery? A cell reaches cutoff sooner at a higher amp draw. Lower the amps and you can keep using it for a bit more. Evolves drop to to eco mode on low battery for this very reason. Just because the battery voltage is too low to sustain high power output does not mean itās dead, just means you need to lower the power draw.
But nah course Iām just trolling, you seem like you know it all, go ask some other battery builder what they think of your analysis then. Apparently you are expert on everything, jump to conclusion right away ādefinitely wrong material, definitely donāt do this because my chainsaw user manual says thisā. Iām gonna call and get a refund on my mech-e degree because apparently I donāt know shit. Thanks.
So if we use it as advertised then damaged batteries should be covered under some warranty by revel boards. Otherwise they need to update their documentation.
This wouldāve swayed my purchase if this recommended use was advertised.
If you like to ride long distances then the best way to do that with a Revel Kit is to have spare batteries. In my opinion, the worst way is to have only one battery and ignore multiple low battery alerts until you come to a hard stop. This is not a criticism of the revel kit. Regardless of what brand you ride, critical battery alarms are there to protect your battery and should not be ignored.
Edit:
I deleted most of this post because it is redundant with this one:
Did you mean one bar consumed or one bar remaining. I assumed you meant one bar remaining.
One bar remaining.
If youāre saying itās not āsafeā to keep riding the board at one bar left when I get the buzz notification then I wouldāve liked to have known this since with one bar left Iām not even close to the advertised range. This is something customers should know.
āSafeā can mean alot of different things. Iām talking about maximizing the life expectancy of your battery.
Iām saying your battery will last longer and have better range if you do not ignore the warnings that tell you have just dropped below critical voltage. Iām saying that if you repeatedly ignore the vibration alerts that there is a very high probablility of battery damage and reduced range.
Iām just another customer like you. Iām not speakng on behalf of any manufacturer or about any particular manufacturer. I would give you the same advice if you were riding a boosted board, or an evolve, etc.
Lithium batteries are not intended to be fully depleted. I own a Nissan Leaf electric car. When my range drops to 30 kilometers I start getting warnings. At 20 kilometers of range the car wonāt stop beeping. Those warnings are there to prevent me from damaging my battery.
Lets talk about the Nissan Leaf range. If I drive at residential street speeds, then I can get approxmately the advertised range. If I travel on the highway at 120 kph, I get half the advertised range. If the weather is cold, the range drops by about 30% or more. If I accellerate hard, I donāt get to drive as far.
These are characteristics of lithium batteries/EVās. No manufacturer guarantees you a specific range regardless of temperature, acceleration and speed.
It sounds like you can get approximately the advertised Revel Kit range if you ride the Kit until the last drop (and if you ignore at least one vibration alert). It also sounds like you would be disappointed with the range if you stopped at some point on the fourth bar when you feel the first vibration alert.
How far do you get before the first vibration alert? How much further do you get if you ignore the alert.
Iām a heavy rider (220 lbs with gear). When I rode a 2WD Revel Kit, at conservative speed and acceleration, then on a warm day, I could make it to 14 kilometers before a vibration alert. I will admit to just once riding past those alerts in order to stay with a group of riders who had bigger batteries than me. My revel kit powered down at 17 kilometers. The extra three kilometers were slow, stressful and not much fun. I also felt really bad because I knew that I had mistreated my battery.
But I donāt often ride that conservatively so my range is often less. If i ride near top speed and accelerate hard then my range can be as low as 6 kilometers. This variability is normal.
So given my own tastes for acceleration, speed and range, I upgraded to 4WD and a total of four Revel kit batteries. Two extended range and two travel size. Now Iām never tempted to do bad things to the battery. I donāt get stressed about getting stranded.
So think about what your range expectations are and if you should lower them depending onā¦
How much do you weigh?
How hard do you accelerate?
Do often you travel at higher speeds?
Have you been riding in relatively cold weather?
If there is a gap between the range you need and the range that a revel kit produces for your weight and riding style, then the simple solution is to buy an extra battery. They donāt cost alot and I would be surprised if you did not thoroughly enjoy the freedom of swapping batteries at the first warning. It really is alot more fun than streaching out a charge on eco mode.