If you need for 12mm belts : https://whooshboards.com/product/wheel-pulley-36t-for-flywheel-style-wheels/
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Iām aware they share a bearing. But thatās exactly my point; nothing is keeping it together aside from friction while other press fit pulley options such as Haggy, 3DServisas, etc have either flanged bearings or integrated bearings. Iāve had my BKB pulleys come off during a ride and their response was to add loctite between the bearing and the inside of the pulley
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I was under the impression that the bearing was flanged to lock to the wheel when tightened against the hanger. Not the case? Iām out.
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Looks good but why donāt you just incorporate a bearing seat into the pulley so standard 608ās work? Am I missing something?
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Because then it wonāt fit in standard cal 'll trucks without modification.
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why? My bolt ons on 218ās have to be spaced to fit 6374 motors and to do it I use a standard spacer and an inner race from a bearing. Is the axle shorter on the cal11? Thought they had extended axles. If you donāt mind me saying why are you designing for the caliber trucks? Not the best option anymore really.
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Tb218 have longer Axelās then cal ll and if they work for caliber then they work for all trucks with 8mm axles. And I may even be able to make them fit 10mm axles.
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Not sure exactly, full steam ahead on kits and not sure when i have time for other goodies.
@Jujo yes friction is the only thing holding it into the wheel. This is perfectly fine. Iāve sold hundreds of these and the reports of pulleys coming off are less than 5. And I thought your issue was solved?
If you remove the bearing multiple times, the seat comes out of tolerance. Once itās installed, donāt remove it unless you absolutely have to.
@M.Hboards your have an interesting idea! Always like to see innovation on the modular pulleys. What is the thickness of the metal between the flange and wheel? It looks very very thin. Before you sell them, I would 100% make sure you buy a set to test. A lot can go wrong in the MFG process
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If you can get the kegel core I have a set of 32t pulleys laying around.
@BuildKitBoards thanks for the words of encouragement!
I am 100% going to get a sample made first! The thickness is 2mm. It doesent need to be thick as its not weight bearing its purpose is strictly to allow the flange on the pulley to lock the pulley to the wheel and once the axle nut is tightened its impossible for the pulley to move.
But then you only have 2mm for the bearing to sit, which is weight bearing. May be a little close.
Also, mine use an 11mm thick bearing. Thatās 4mm more than normal, so your 2mm thick wall, and Iām assuming at least 1mm thick flange. That only leave 1mm? Please point I out where my maths are wrongā¦ it just doesnāt make any sense how you can get the lock nut on (unless itās a jam nut?)
Goddamint, Iām distracted now! Iād rather talk pulleys than put stuff in boxes anyway.
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@BuildKitBoards the total length of the bearing is 7mm and 3.5mm is used on the lip and flange so 3.5 mm is in the wheel. So an extra 3.5 mm is used on the axle. Also now looking at it is bearing a bit of weight but not that the thickness of it matters as its essentially an extention of the wheels bearing seat.
Well, finished conversion. Tapped, drilled and done. Best part is being able to use Zealous Bearings and Paris v2 trucks.
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Nicely done!
Whatās the length of the bolts that you got?
Thanks, I just reuse the bolts from the Dickyho ABEC flywheels set I have. They are 2" or 50mm in length, not including the head.
I see I see 
I used 50mm bolt too but donāt seems to be able to use any retainer ring, seems like I need a longer boltā¦
Reviving an older post. Any options for US supplier push fit ABECs that donāt require bolting through the wheel? Thereās only a few companies that seem to be machining a true push fit with no bolt through option and there all EU based 