Push fit pulley options - a guide

Hi I found them at the local hardware store under the metric section. The sae ones donā€™t fit.

The OD is 42.8 mm
ID is 19mm
1.1 mm thick.

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Thanks for the info mate :+1:

But another question, how did you line up the washer accurately to drill the holes for the screws tho?

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Is there another 44T Kegel pulley apart from the 3dservisas one? Better if is a not made of aluminium
I have it, but unfortunately doesnā€™t fit my janux hubs.


Thanks!

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15/44 gearing on a 125mm wheel? Calm down there leadfoot :smile:

Is that the hub made to worth with lofty DDā€™s?

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Weirdly I think most if not all 44t kegel pulleys are made out of aluminum. Youā€™d have better luck 3d printing some.

On a separate note I could take those pulleys off your hands :eyes:

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:joy: The idea is to share wheels between my board with TBDD and my Evolve GTR without having to change the pulleys of the Evolve.

The wheels are the TBDD and the Bergmeister with Janux Hubs. 110 and 145mm.

This is the other board Iā€™m working onā€¦

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Ok, maybe Iā€™ll have to print one

By the moment not planning to sell this beautiful pulleys :wink:

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I used 3D printed pulleys my 1st yr of esk8ing, they work fine.

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If I remembered correctly, I placed the washer on the table and then lay the gear teeth side on top of it. Then I used a sharp object to mark through the holes on the other side.

I find that you donā€™t have to be super precise since the holes will be slightly larger than the bolt, allowing for some wiggle room.

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M5 bolts right? Are you using without support bearing? Im thinking of doing screw in with support bearing. I wonder what the minimum spacer needed for 24mm bearingsā€¦ You could probably also eliminate front washer with counter bore, would be nice

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Thanks for the info Lee, just exactly what I wanted to know :slight_smile: :+1:

Iā€™m a noob, whatā€™s a support bearing? And I notice that in the kegel wheel photo, few of the holes has flatten steps for the screws, how is that done?

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A support bearing would be one that supports the pulley. Should keep everything aligned and keep leverage off the wheel core. You have couple options available.

I believe the tool needed for the countersinking of the bolts is a m5 cap head counterbore

@dickyho can you run standard 608 bearing + 3mm spacer + 628 bearingā€¦ Kegal pulley

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Ahh I get it now, Iā€™ve never used any support bearing before this, maybe itā€™s a good idea to start doing so :smiley:

And for the countersink on the core, too bad I donā€™t have the tools and it isnā€™t that easy to get it hereā€¦
I guess Iā€™ll have to just use the oversize washer on top of the core like what Lee didā€¦

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The original posts started way back here: Push fit pulley options - a guide

I couldnā€™t use the support bearing / push-fit method because of the stock 180mm trucks. I tried just using bolts against the core but didnā€™t like how it deforms the core. The spacer helps distribute the load more evenly.

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@IamLee I think you could still use a 8x22x10 bearing instead of a regular skateboard bearing, along side the bolt on method. It adds 3mmā€¦ Pulleys look nice, Ć­ might pick some up

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Yea thatā€™s what I did with the boosted 90mm clones I have, thatā€™s why the countersunk kegel core looks nice cos the screw will be able to sit flat :+1:

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Finally got the washers thatā€™s fits the kegel pulley just nice :slight_smile:

Gonna just sit the washer inside the pulley and drill the holes :+1:


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Use a press if you can, and a small bit so you donā€™t damage the threads.

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I am no fan of using 3 bearings where one is of a different kind than the rest, and has to share a lip with the next one. Why do not more vendors make pulleys like metroboard, running two bearings? Squeaking sounds maybe? More expensive to mill? Looks like the best solution on paper. Or are there better designs out there?

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most use 2 bearings on the wheel, 1 on the wheel pulley.

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