Try the enertion firmware and see if the problem still exists, without changing any hardware.
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Ok, will try that. Thanks man
Funny, the issue went away with the Enertion firmware, though I couldnt get the motors to turn in the same direction - the app didnt appear to let me change this - so the test was done with motors turning oppposite directions…shouldn’t make a difference, right?. I guess it’s worth flashing back to VESC to see if the problem goes?
Swap any two phase wires on the motor that turns backwards. Then redo motor detection.
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Ok ive not opened the board up yet, that’ll have to wait till tomorrow. Was able to do everything till now via bluetooth. Do you suspect a firmware issue?
(flashing back to VESC firmware now to see if it’s resolved - might just have needed to be reflashed? - though i cant see how firmware can become corrupted)
Yeah I suspect as much but I have not figured it out.
You could keep trying firmwares to see which version introduces the problem but I don’t recall how far back in the firmwares the dual motor controllers are supported.
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Ok, cheers, will see what I can do.
Looks like version 5.00 introduced support for Unity. So you can’t try anything before that except the enertion firmware.
I thought enertion firmware was built specifically for the Unity?
talking about the VESC tool here?
It is.
VESC Tool or variESC Tool, yes.
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sorry, misread the message. got it 
Im about to order caliber baseplates for my evo build.
I understand the spectrum 40" has 10 degree wedge and dewedge?
Should i go with 50 or 44 degree? How will it behave diffrently from eachother. Also, will there be clearance issue with the BN M1 drives with 44->34 degree plate?
Can I install smaller axles on my apex airs if I want to run urethane? Or perhaps 22 od 10 id bearings? These axel ARE 10mm right? What would be recommended?
I wasnt sure the best place to ask this so I am here…
I am wondering about changing the gearing on the Flux, and wonder what I should expect it to do to the esc, heat wise, and to the battery, efficiency wise.
wonder if would be much of a change…
I think most of the time I run my gearing way more towards having torque.
on the Flux on 8 inch wheels I am running 14/72 (5.14) on 190kV.
I love the torque. I am never fully pegging the trigger.
but I am thinking I need to try 15/72 (4.8) to see what that is like.
the Llama is faster than I usually make my boards and I am liking the mid band acceleration.
what should I expect to see going from 14 to 15.
couple more miles top speed. that might be nice for the last few miles of the battery…
I wonder if the torque will be a big change.
will this likely demand more from the ESC?
will it heat more?
or is it magically a sweeter spot and everything will run better?
I guess I will find out if I try right…
everyone seems to run lower gearing than me on their carvers…
the flux is 12s10p 30q. unity now on 23.64. TB 6380 190kvs.
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The extra speed will hurt your range (assuming your average top speed increases) somewhat. Not a huge difference between 14 and 15/72 though, so i wouldn’t expect a huge difference anywhere.
with a 10s3p 21700 molicel p42a pack what should my cutoff start/end be in vesc?
Assuming your ESC is connected directly to the battery without a BMS in the middle:
Single ESC: 90A battery max, -45A battery min
Dual ESC: 45A battery max, -22A battery min
These are the settings I would use, but if you are worried about cell life and want to keep within cell limits, and don’t care about weaker brakes, then do -25A battery min for single, -12A battery min for dual.
Edit: oh, read the question wrong. Voltage cutoffs? Depends. Maybe like 34V cutoff start, 30V cutoff end? There’s a thread you can read about some other people’s settings:
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i by mistake stuck 50v into my imax b6 mini
any chance i can bring it back to life?
Probably not.
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There was an incident and my axle was bent.
Thinking of buying a piece of pipe to slot over it and gently jump on it to bend it back.
My friend said best to leave it bent as bending it back will weaken it further which does sort of make sense to me.
It’s actually mostly bent down due to the bizarre nature of the incident rather than up as you would get if you landed some wicked air.
There is very little toe in or toe out to the bend. So it doesn’t seem to cause much issue.
It does mean the belt rides 2mm out of track at the top of the wheel pulley.
a) rebend it
b) leave it
c) spend a whole bunch of money on new trucks (my least favorite option)