Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics Esk8 Mechanics
#17790

That can range from many things:

  • Bad remote (this would be my reason of crash)

  • bad esc programming/ or poorly made (playing with the settings without knowing how it works)

  • BMS (not bypassed and being pushed beyond capacity)

  • weak voltage from battery (can cause a reset on your board)

  • vibrations causing something internal to break (receiver would be my second reason for a crash)

  • and battery improperly made (usually pre-builts that aren’t made for safety, but for money)

The best you can do is simply buy from trusted vendors on the remote and try not messing with your esc, other than what is only needed to be messed with. And to not go beyond what your esc can handle, and what your battery can output. Some crashes would be from ERPM limit shutting off your remote. This one sucks.

1 Like
#17791

So, the remote losing connection or shutting off will lock the weels?
I got the Stormcore 60D+ here today, so hope it will work fine.
Battery will be from a very reputable guy here on the forums.

#17792

No. That is if you programmed your esc to “force stop” if ppm signal is lost to the esc (hobbywing does this, and I hate it). I turn mine off. You can lower the amps on that system so it doesn’t throw you off, but slows you down to a stop.

Edit: stormcore is a good esc for what I’ve heard. So it should be fine.

2 Likes
#17793

Sounds good man. Thanks. Feel a bit better now. :smiley:
Will pad everything down and make sure all parts inside is well supported, and use a good dampening material.

2 Likes
#17794

Have fun.

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#17795

No

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#17796

I think it’s maybe 1.2A if I recall but it also powers the ESC so you can’t use the whole 1200mA.

I also would not use that for lights.

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#17797

Neither do I, and I’ve made some badass shit.

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#17798

Yeah…

Besides, it’s so easy to just throw a small buck converter in there that it doesn’t make it worth the risk

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#17799

Can anyone recommend a stealthy way of running motor/sensor wires from a bottom and inward mounted motor to an enclosure that is top mounted? Basically TB mount/trucks which will be need to go to a top rear mounted enclosure. I looked at tunnel risers but they seem to be for routing to a bottom mount enclosure.

#17800

Does anyone know the exact outside diameter of 8mm x 22mm skate bearings? Apparently Trampa’s “9.52” axle bearings are 22.22mm, and it seems as if 8mm skate bearings really are just 22mm, or less, even. I can’t seem to fit Trampa’s 22mm bearings into TB110’s.

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#17801

press fit man, trampa bearings fit ‘loosely’ in their wheels but compression fit into the kegel core of TB110mm (100mm for me)

Use a C-clamp with a plank for one side it’ll act as a brearing press

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#17802

So I don’t have to worry about breaking this kegel core, I just need the right kind of pressure? Are 8 x 22mm skate bearings also oversized by .22mm?

I think than maybe I can use the axle itself to put the bearings on. I’ll just put a big washer over the bearing, and use the nut to tighten it until it seats.

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#17803

R6-2RS bearings are 22.22 x 9.525 x 7.1 mm

and yes you can press them in place using the trucks and wont damage the core, the core is pretty soft when you think about it.

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#17804

Extend the motor wire and sensors wires. Best way to do it. Other than that, not sure.

#17805

If I wanted to wire up a buck converter with a switch, does the voltage rating for the buck matter? Is a 12v rated switch fine between like a 50.4V pack to a buck (assuming the buck can handle 50.4v and that current ratings of what we want to power are within spec)?

#17806

If the switch is between 50.4V and the buck, then yes it matters and the switch has to be rated for that voltage because it needs to switch that voltage. If it’s after the buck, it only needs to be rated for a bit above 12V or whatever the output is.

Generally though - with a lot of asterisks - it’s the current rating of the switch that’s likely to cause issues. Low voltage switches aren’t reeeally a thing because you need huge voltages to arc across the distance of the switch, but low current switches very much are a thing because the small ones can’t handle more than (or even at) what they’re rated for

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#17807

Yeah I figured I’d need a higher voltage switch, like with fuses and what not. Thanks :slight_smile:

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#17808

@fessyfoo any chance you can explain this

#17809

don’t do this until you’ve found a thread talking about your actual problem, and you try the upgrade to intermediate firmware versions.

doing swd programming wrong, does come with risk of brick.

2 Likes