Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

no, unless u use a buck converter

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Yeah you’re right, the light I have to hand is 12W with an in-built buck converter so it takes ~50V battery voltage and the current is low as a result, I was thinking of that rather than the case of a 12V. If you’re trying to run a low voltage high power light I would still prefer a small loop key to a relay because it doesn’t have moving parts and is less susceptible to vibrations and impact, but that seems a good idea too

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You need to do a lot for lights. It’s simple to just mount some battery powered ones. Otherwise, you might have to look deeper into it.

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anyone has any idea what the battery current max and regen for the previous battery is, my guess is 45A but should i play it safe with 30A

I still don’t know for mine. Best way to know is to open the pack and see what battery is it. If it’s the Chinese type, we’re in the same boat.

Why are Infinity Hubs so incredibly expensive? $1,000 a set!

Infinity hubs? Like, the 3D servisas finality ones? Or are you talking about something else

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I’m pretty sure it’s 250 for four, anshul just did a bad job making that clear on the webpage

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Ahhh. Are they actually available? It says pre-order.

nope, i don’t think Anshul’s got them in hand yet from the factory

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Can anyone recommend a cheap, 2-stage vacuum pump? Like $150’ish?

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Still got the weird acceleration issue on my unity. Sometimes when i start to accelerate it just “taps” the throttle and then continues to throttle up. It’s not super jerky but still very noticeable.

It’s like if you were to flick the brake once and then hold the brake, just with acceleration.

Restarting the unity fixed it mostly i think but at random times it comes back.

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what remote u using? vx1?

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yes

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have a look at this:

might be something to do with the potentiometer, the metal contact might be little dirty

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the issues described there sounds different on some parts.

I feel like it’s like shifting gears where you have that short dead zone between the shifting, only that the shift begins not even a second after starting to accelerate.

Tap the the throttle, then hold, that’s how it behaves.

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:thinking: u using it in ppm mode? maybe try to remap again?

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ppm, yes.

did that several times.

Not sure why it comes and goes. Restarting sometimes fixes it. I had it on my ride yesterday, left the apartment, stepped on it and noticed it. Restarted the board and it was gone.

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Does the VX1 use magnets and a hall effect sensor like the VX2 or is it a potentiometer? Sounds like dirt or corrosion in a potentiometer to me, but that’s a bit of a guess. Have you replicated it on other remotes?