Yep, that occurs on all of the units I have checked. The male bullets still make full contact with the female sleeves and clear the resistor sleeve, so I dont think it’s an issue. Nothing to worry about 
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got a 5 pin momentary switch i need to wire (ubox one) anyone got the wiring diagram for it?
i think only 3/4 of the pins are used though
thanks
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Take a pic
found it on there website… we sort of. i got a picture which shows kinda how its wired
Generally the two side ones are the light (one ground one positive) and the 3 in line are normally closed, common (also ground) and normally open
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What Arthx said ^^
Also if you look closely at the bottom of the switch right around the terminals, they’re usually labeled NC/NO/C/LED+/LED- or similar.
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Aww man, that’s janky 
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yeah not a fan of the gap.
Considering that fully inserting those is like the number one thing you have to do when using them, it’s nice to feel and see them seat fully.
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Does fiberglass need to be laid a certain way like some carbon fibers weaves do? Or can it go on any way?
Hello fellow riders and builders,
Could you please think with me?! I had 4 bad cells in my 10s4p (Samsung 30q) …
I’m not a battery builder so our dear friend glyphiks was very kind and welded 4 cells together for me.
I’m now at the point where I replaced that old pack and everything works now, but …
(I KNOW SOME OF YOU SAW THIS COMMING 
Now after hours of charging my led is green and my 4 new cells are at 3.7V and the rest is at 4.1 or 4.2
Can I force the new pack to go to 4.2?
You could probably leave it charging for a couple weeks straight (depending on your charger and BMS) or just charge that one pack up by itself if you have an 18650 charger or something.
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Wow, weeks you say!! I have bought a little charger for 4 cells but it’s already welded together… cloud I try charge the 4 together soldering 2 wires to the charger and the pack?! Or with clamps?! While it is in the total 10s4p pack?
Yes, if there is no other common connection. Don’t have the charger connected to the whole pack. make sure that P-pack is the only thing connected to the outside world with wires.
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I might do that! and what will probably happen if I leave the different voltages as the are now?! I wanna ride in the sun 
If you run that new P-pack down too low you can damage it or cause a fire if you’ve bypassed the BMS, which is typically how an esk8 is wired.
Yes, Lii-PD4 will work great for fixing that. Use alligator clips and carefully connect just that P-pack.
carefully being the key word here
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Thanks man !! I will be careful 
Just a little update on the process: I soldered the charger to the one pack … and it is now charging. So far so good 
it’s now up to 3.92V still counting
… 4.06V still counting
… 4.15V (88%) and still counting
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