Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Yes haha but they’ve been working just fine. With TB110’s I tend to scrape a lot. With my Bergs it’s not too bad.

with the DS enclosure yeh it gets scraped a bit lol

You just need a fuse on one of your charge port leads, doesn’t matter that much. Rate it just a little higher than the charging rate. For me, I charge at 6A and have a 10a blade fuse on the wire. Just keeps it safe in case I short the charge port on accident.

They do come with buttons but as you can see in the picture, they use nuts now instead which make it easier to not strip the screws. I also had TBv6 mounts and stripped like 3 of those stainless screws, they were bad.

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All you’re doing is fusing the port from getting shorted. Nothing else, you only need to account for charge rate.

You should never be discharging through your fuse

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they def r thick lol

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Awesome, that helps I’m going to be charging at 4A so I’ll just get 10A or something.

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Your fuse should be between 150% and 200% the rating of your charger. Are you planning to charge at 80A?

That would be perfect.

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Great thanks guys @ShutterShock @Evwan

Quick one do u have to worry aboht voltage for the fuse ? Most of the. Seem to be like 32V or 12V for most of them.

I Fucking hate the button screws :rofl: my crossbars on the v6 are stripped Permanently @torqueboards can you get rid of the the button screws go hex please :call_me_hand:

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Idk I never looked, I got the one in my board from @b264 and I’m pretty sure it’s just a 10a automotive fuse. I’m not an EE so I’m not sure exactly how much the voltage affects it.

I guess if the fuse was rated for watts I would be more concerned but I haven’t had any problems yet

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Yes, you need a fuse rated for at least 50V DC. Probably you will find ones rated for 60V.

The reason for this is because when the fuse blows, you need the gap it creates to be wide enough that the current can not just arc across the gap.

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Please be careful before answering questions that you actually know what is being asked and what is being answered. We don’t need people ending up with a fuse between their battery and their ESC

It may not be “obvious” this is the noob question thread, lets just keep it objective :grinning:

Edit: I know you mean well, thanks for contributing

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:sweat_smile: I do suppose my wording of “breaking something as a result of not having a fuse” could be confusing.

Hybrid ≠ FOC. They don’t work the same. Sensors turns off when adding current to the motors in BLDC hybrid. It only works for a short start up, but will break the sensors eventually.

Edit: FOC should be used to see if you had the same noise since sometimes that noise is usually from BLDC. It can help to see if it’s the bldc mode or the motors itself if you hear the same sound in FOC.

While this is technically true, which is the best kind of true, any fuse in there will help you. If you put a 12V fuse in there, it will be fine. Just make sure the current rating on it is about 110% to 200% of the maximum charge current you want to use.

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That actually sounds a little big. 7.5A would be perfect IMHO

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I disagree. While it’s not guaranteed to happen it’s just not worth the risk of the short-circuit current arcing across the gap and blowing up the fuse, possibly starting a fire. The correct voltage fuses are always available. The right fuse will just sit there and open up if there’s a short-circuit.

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For those in the USA, I have 58V fuses on the cheap

mouser charges like $0.56 plus $7.99 shipping for just a single one

Just solder it into your charge port circuit and silicone/epoxy/hot glue it inside the enclosure.

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Do you know where I get get one for 50.4V for UK for 4A? Cant find one anywhere for the correct voltage

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It’s in that link above. Just change .com to .co.uk

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0997007.5WXN?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh2y49K8ANrYB63nQN2nH5H23b06A9xQM%3D

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Cheers Brian !

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