I don’t seem to be able to move the shaft at all and i don’t have a blowtorch on hand. Any ideas?
Did you take out the 2 grub screws at the end? Should be visible from the outside. If the shaft doesn’t want to move with a little persuasion from a punch and hammer you would need a press… To persuade the shaft to come out use a set up like this, the 2 rectangle with lines in them are wood or anything soft to support the can
Do not forget to take the grubs screw out before attempting!
Edit:
Location of grub screws circled in red
1 Like
anyone know what the chargers thread is called? I can not find it is where they talk about how to charge a battery with external bms
i don’t think there is a specific thread about it but i once mentioned a bms outisde of your enclosure
1 Like
rather it was a thread where we talked about the chargers and how to route the balance cables out
Yup. Grub screws completely out. I am worried that if i do get it out it’ll be really hard to fit it back in since it doesn’t slide out nicely
If with a couple taps with a puch & hammer with moderate strength it does not want to come out I wouldn’t risk it. There might be some kind of loctite or something holding it in place if so after cleaning and applying 638 it should go in 
.
This thread sums it up pretty good
1 Like
I always wondered this as well. There are a few cables with enough pins and waterproofing out there but fitting more pins and keeping safe amp rating turns into a monster cable.
I’d still rather have 1 big plug on my enclosure and free up bms space. Although bms are getting smaller and smaller 
They so advertise although that is a totally ridiculous value on my experience. I already tried two 6.6 duals and both could not handle even a continuous 60A from the battery. The mosfets quickly reach 85°C and the FSVESC starts cutting off.
1 Like
yeah my 10S 15a bms is 63x47x12mm
Not sure if this is a noob question or not, but I am a noob, and I am asking this question.
I am currently doing my first build, one-year anniversary. I have every important component. The batteries, the vesc, the connectors etc, and it’s remained largely unassembled for a year (except for some parts like the motor mount and the motor). The reason why I have put off the build is because I do not know how to progress. I need a box/casing that protects ALL components when I’m out skateboarding (?), but not sure where or how to go about getting such a container. I need a solution for this, any help?
Also, I don’t have a BMS, so I would have to disconnect the batteries when I’m not using it, which means I would have to be able to reach for the components, so a lid is necessary (or some other clever idea).
Also, I need a controller. Any decent controller for a vesc? (that’s not unnecessarily expensive?)
3 Likes
Best to probably tell us what deck you’re using holmes.
2 Likes
not that expensive
2 Likes
Would help to know what tools and or machines you have at your disposal for making the enclosure (3D printer, familiar with heat and/or vacuum forming, just looking to buy something)? People all get pretty creative when it comes to enclosures since it is usually a part that has to be pretty customized to the deck and battery choice.
Bms if quite cheap if you look around this forum and/or ask for recommendations.
Enclosure depends where you are. Expect to pay around £70-100 for a really good fibreglass one, or make it yourself. People here use anything, even flower pots.
To disconnect the pack when not in use you need an antispark switch. This will give you a button you put on the enclosure and that’s about it. Or, if you don’t want to spend the £30, a loop key made of xt90s
As a remote, a personal recommendation is the vx1 from flipsky. Beware from where you buy it. Older versions have smaller batteries and other problems. Newest one should be advertised as such.
You may also want to look for a charging port (dc jack is the easiest), some fuses to make sure you don’t set stuff on fire if disaster happens, wood inserts (assuming you buy an enclosure and need to stick it under the deck), m4 or m5 bolts,
drill bits: it’s better to get the parts first but the power button will most likely be 12mm, dc barrel jack 8mm, the bolts, just go half a mm over the size you buy. So 4.5 or 5.5mm for the respective bolts. And for the inserts it should mention the right size in the description.
For motor phase wires i used pg7 glands, they fit into 12mm holes and waterproof cables from 3 to 7mm (phases are usually 4mm).
You may want to check the trusted vendor list on this forum. There’s quite a few in europe that can deliver within 2 weeks
@Hoaz updated with more info
4 Likes
you talking to me?
he is yeah
yah would say deck and battery size are most important parts to know when looking for enclosure solutions: https://forum.esk8.news/search?q=enclosure
I’ve made one for the VESC4 and receiver and other things, but will help give better guidance if we know deck and battery dimensions
Don’t have a 3D printer, not familar with heat / vacuum forming. Perhaps, then, I’d be better off purchasing from someone? Any good idea? I have this board