the ingredients of my pickles say vinegar, water and then some other stuff
Vinegar is for dyeing wheels 
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This conversation strangely makes me want to watch Rick and Morty
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it’s probably different here because our pickles are like this and not those big ones
these have a diameter of like 8mm
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Gherkins? We don’t call them pickles too…
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in my language the thick ones are called the same as the small ones
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Mine seem to be that the brass washers are juust too thin so it rattles along the shaft. I tried putting one more and i can no longer lock the circlip. Tried speed rings, everything. Only solution would be to carefully grind down a speed ring until there’s no rattling and i can lock the circlip, but that’s a lot of patience i don’t have
Nor do I. I had a ton of issues with the FS6374 but my 6354 have been mostly flawless. Must be there crappy Quality Control or lack there of and I have just been lucky.
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Flipsky roulette.
One IS passable as overall smoothness but the other does my head in.
Shitty one also developed shaft wear because why not.
By the way, what motor amps are you pushing through them?
I love Belgium my family is from the east France. So every visit we would spend a few days in Antwerp. Best beer waffles and chocolate in the world.
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I am going to check mine on the weekend…
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Might have been a loose motor shaft, Happened to me with BKB 6354 motors where the shaft was sliding in and out. I solved it by pulling out the shaft putting loctite 638 on the shaft where it slides in the can and replacing the grub screws by m4 socket head bolts with red loctite. I reassembled the motor with the brass washers and circlips before tightening the shaft set screws. Once I put the circlip and washers I gently hit the tip of the shaft with a hammer to tighten up the fit of the washer/circlip interface. After the hit I torqued down the shaft set screws and let the loctite cure for at least 24h. I personally left mine cure for 2 days. So far since I’ve done this 400km and no sign of loose can or motor rattle. The very important part when reassembling the motor is the hammer tap, it eliminates the possible back and forth slop.
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They are the same motor, great advice.
Not exactly the same but all motors of this type exhibit the same kind of issues with the grub screws and shaft. The tip of the grub screws starts to get rounded and afterwards it just quickly goes from bad to very broken…
Hope this helps a couple of peeps! 
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Hi guys !
Does anybody know why flipsky single VESCs are rated at 60A and dual ones are rated at 2x100A ? Are there really 80A difference between 2 singles and one dual ? Or is it a trick from flipsky in order to “force” us to buy dual config so we have to change everything if something breaks ?
Thanks in advance.
Vinz
If you are talking about the 4.20 it is rated at 50A x2 for a total of 100A combined. The 6.6 is “rated” for 2x100A but irl it’s probably lower than that. Your question is very large without specifying what exact models you are referring to. Flipsky has a lot of different version with different hardware versions 4 vs 6, and they use different fets depending on the products. The single 6.6 is rated for 60A continuous and 150 peaks, probably due to the use of different mosfets. Anyways if you plan to drive more than 60A per motor continous idk what you are building but look into buying beefier escs.
The FSESC 4.20 mini single has been tested by @b264 but he drives them at max 25amps. Best move is always go for 2 singles because if one breaks you dont have to change the 2 escs. The only exception will be the stormcore but it is not out yet.
12s4p
Sk3 motors
16/36 gearing
Getting “chattering” from motors at near max (or ‘high’ throttle if going uphill). Its so severe its shaking my entire rear truck assembly. Anyone know the reason?
My guess is the motors not able to deal with the motor amps (75A in Unity) but I need more pooowwaaahh… Feedback appreciated
i got mine from here.
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Looking for black ones if possible, but thanks!!!
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I like this stuff
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