Yea haha. It’s basically the same pulley. Will it be alright with the thick part on the inside?
That should be fine if you snug it up to the mount as much as possible. The ones you’ve got are actually nicer since the shoulder is shorter.
Since you’ve got a keyway, that takes care of rotation. All the setscrews need to do is keep the pulley from coming off the shaft or moving laterally.
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Thanks! I can move along with my build now 
I am stuck with 2 flipsky 6355 190kv motors on my board and they rattle like a damn tin can full of washers. Not even 1 month old.
I did properly abuse them in road vibrations and roughly 650km (70km today only!) but i also opened them up to check that nothing is actually rattling, added loctite to the magnets, lubed bearings.
The problem is just the shaft and the cheapest bearings china can produce that are found in them unfortunately. Look for better.
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Just make sure to keep your belt as loose as possible without it skipping. Idlers are helpful here, to give you more wrap around the pulley, for more teeth engaged.
I learned that the hard way, broke the shaft off one of my motors due to too much tension.
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I use this thing.
Is it worth offering up a nearly dead Sunkko 709a? It does a weld before it shuts down so its probably salvageable, but I have no idea if its worth trying to sell it in that state
How low of a resistance can you go? 2500 Ohms is pretty high, only 14 mA right?
Yeah if you add a heatsink you will be able to get much higher. The bigger one I made melted itself apart in short order and desoldered all the connections.
You can get a power resistor with a builtin heatsink and it’d work much better.
Soo… it seems like dropping battery max from 28 to 25 amps (56 to 50) and lowering cutoff end to 33v got me 700mAh back from my battery capacity.
Got home at 36.00v, as my battery sags quite a lot due to my choice of battery clips
Moral of the story: 30q at over 15A discharge = big losses in capacity
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what was your Wh/Km prior to your changes?
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Exactly the same. It averages out perfectly on this route i take to the furthest park my battery can reach.
Morning commute was 13wh/km, flat out 40-50km/hr for 7km straight
Note: 8.9wh/km is 14.2wh/mile
13wh/km is 20.8wh/mile
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where can I find a spacer like this for sixshooters. I noticed that the wheels that spin with less resistance has spacers like this in them. My other wheels the spacers are different lots if resistance.
maybe here…
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So really nobody used @torqueboards 50xx motor mounts and could tell me the length of the belts needed for 36/15T gearing???
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Does anyone here run a vesc with sensorless hub motors? If yes hows the startup? I would run HFI but unfortunately the vesc I want to run doesn’t support newer firmware versions. (It’s a @esk8supply vesc)
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I still don’t buy that story. Has anyone tried?
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The one dimension you need is the one you didn’t picture: the height of the cylinder.
Spacers that are too short allow you to put excessive axial load on the bearings.
Spacers that are too tall leave room for the wheels and bearings to shift relative to each other.
A spacer that is just right will allow a slight preload of the bearings, but not excessive. You’d have to measure the space between the bearing seats of your wheels to know exactly what spacer is ideal.
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I think it may work but the battery indicator and reverse switch functionality will be lost. Not 100% sure tho. I just don’t want too brick it by updating the firmware. I’ve reached out to clarify this with @Esk8supply but still waiting on a response