Yep, pull test is always good. I usually have to turn up my welder to get good nickel->nickel welds, as nickel has much lower resistance than steel (what the cell can is made of).
The “speed modes” on the Hoyt Puck are simply limiting the output frequency of the PWM (aka PPM) signal. So if unrestricted (aka “full speed” or speed mode 3) is 1.2ms to 1.8ms, the first speed mode might restrict that to 1.4ms to 1.6ms.
Because of this restricted travel, your VESC gets a much more moderate input than it’s expecting, and therefore delivers much lower torque/duty cycle to your motors. That lower duty cycle might not be enough to actually get you moving without a kick push, as you have discovered.
Such as the Flipsky Antispark, the Haggyboard Antispark, a Maytech Antispark, etc. They are stand-alone units that you wire in line between your battery and your ESC.
i.e. cut these battery wires (NOT AT THE SAME TIME) and solder in an XT90S female on the battery side and male on the ESC side. Then you can simply plug and unplug the battery from your ESC. Easy peasy.
If you do it this way, you may want to re-route the battery wires over your binding rather than through the deck channel (assuming we are talking about the board in your profile pic).
How do I fix that? Because on other Chinese boards, their first modes actually starts up better than the hoyt. It’s kinda embarrassing where you can’t have the torque on start up. The speed is great as mentioned, but it needs a boost.
You’re talking about the difference between limiting current and limiting speed. Current is what you want to feel.
On VESCs you can set current with two different limits, motor and battery, and the “motor current” gives you more of what you’re looking for. But limiting the pulsewidths/throttle_throw via speed modes on the remote will not allow you to access these higher values, as it’s limiting current.
Ideally, you want to limit speed and not pulsewidths.
Its more on initial current and not just speed. The speed should be limited by the mode you chose by the pulse of course, but what I meant is something like this:
arent you talking about the same thing I had to solve bc off start up?
Adjust the TC to +50 natural. Adjust the positive ramping time to 0,2 or 0,1 and you are done.
I didnt change any amps settings on mine and it (“feels”) more powerful on start up bc the throttle is more responsive.