I think the part with the case is meant for the motor pulley.
A easy to source setup (for 110mm urethane wheels!) Would be 15t motor pulleys, 36t wheel pulleys (easiest to find, really) and leaving everything else as it is.
This will get you close to 47km/hr or 29mph at a decent acceleration.
Edit: i think using 18T pulleys would mean taking the covers out
Are these the specs of your board currently?
The realistic numbers are the loaded speed ones
Putting a 18T motor pulley will do you 30mph, at the cost of around -20~30% of the acceleration you were getting before
Did you adjust DUTY CYCLE CURRENT LIMIT START to 85%?
@taz
Thank you for the response. You’re the first to give me a hint on where to look. It was the first ride with 5.1.
I have definitely not changed that and have not done so on the rebuild with ESCapes. Hasn’t happened over the three shakedown runs. This one being the most spirited.
I’m going to read that thread start to finish. I’ll be back.
You can get them from Torqueboards
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My plan was to get them cheaper lol, but thanks for the link and your help!
I think it’s because most people who buy them don’t want to sell them 
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Shhh Brian
Maybe they make dumb decisions
Just to have more comfort on not so well roads, I’ll pay 100€ or more for wheels, 20€ or more on new pulleys I don’t even know € for TB 218 trucks and probably new motor mounts.
Sounds like an avalanche…
Any cheaper method you can think of?
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Brand new TB110 are 100eur new right?
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Yes but technically more like 150-170 with shipping and tax/duty fees.
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Right I forget you guys get fucked on import.
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any opinions?
I use .5" ones on my short deck since needed room to stuff a battery in there (now using a buck converter to get power off the main battery cause I got sick of charging so many things). Basically you just lose a bit of stability and get more leverage on turning when it comes to esk8 with a big riser it doesn’t matter as much as with a manual kick board where you want the height to match your stride basically.
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ah… i used the word riser. I meant spacer to lift the battery enclosure and make more height inside.
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I’d say both as a leisure toy and transportation. I’m in Canada (Lots of flat areas to ride with a few hills here and there). For weight I’m 79kg.
I’m currently learning to ride a regular longboard and am pretty comfortable with cruising around. Thanks!
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Oh yah I read it too fast missed that, but yah in terms of ground clearance if it isn’t scraping against the ground and you aren’t jumping curbs then should be fine my boxes are always pretty low to the ground even with the regular truck risers. In terms of aesthetics I think 10mm most people wouldn’t notice as something strange, but honestly the whole thing is weird anyway and I don’t care too much about aesthetics so maybe the wrong person to answer or I don’t know what the question or issue is with having more spacer/enclosure riser.
Get a lot of positive feedback about my board in general so don’t care it’s obviously electric
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I would make a single-drive (on rear heelside) longboard then with a 10S4P or 10S5P battery to try to stay within budget. Probably the largest expenses are a battery, followed by a nice motor like a TB6380 or something. Look at this list
and if you use some longboard equipment you already have it can save money, but not all decks have enclosures available. If you have any Caliber 2 trucks it will help a lot.
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Thank you!
One thing I would like to find is an enclosure that is slim (I’d prefer not to have too much sticking from the bottom of the deck). Any suggestions? Thanks again!
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I think a Hummie deck + enclosure + battery combo may be coming up soon from our friends @hummieee and @evoheyax
If that’s the case, then that would be rather thin as the Hummie deck has a cutout for the battery. I don’t know if there is a thread for that yet though. Guys, is there?
Otherwise, any “integrated” deck or “single stack” enclosure or a deck with a “cutout” will all be the thinnest if you want some words to search with. Stay away from double stacks (two layers of cells)
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