I’m getting a tiny bit of bite from my motor mounts at full lean on my MBS Comp 95, even with the stock shock blocks cranked all the way. Is this an issue? Should I get harder shock blocks, or trim the deck to fix it?
1 Like
Hello
How tight should belts be ?
Have dickios motors and mounts
Thanks
1 Like
they should flex down like 1cm and thats it
so very tight but with slight flex in the belt
1 Like
2 Likes
I have a used Hummie here that I wanted to use with a 12s4p 40T flat pack. The only way to fit that pack would be to router about 1/2" from both sides. Is that removing too much material from the deck?
1 Like
God I wish I knew where that one picture was with the yellow 3D printed pulley that you posted years ago…
Someone OG help me lol
3 Likes
There’s been an instance or two of someone removing a reasonable amount of material from a Hummie and still compromising it.
Can’t un-ring that bell.
2 Likes
That’s kind of what I’m afraid of
2 Likes
If you remove material suggest staying away from the corners and adding reinforcement to underside. I added UD carbon fibre where I removed some width in the middle of the cutout.
11 Likes
Bearing related question:
What sort of issues can you expect to run into with different width size bearings?
I believe standard 12mm x 28mm bearing have a 8mm width.
8mm x 22mm bearing have a 7mm width.
I’m looking at getting some 12mm x 22mm bearing to fit matrix trucks but find they have a 5mm width.
Any insight?
@SJReason can anyone help my man out with the proper configuration for a unity canbus cable? What resistor does he need and where?
1 Like
Narrower ball bearings (both narrower in width, and a closer ratio between ID and OD) generally have smaller balls, which reduces the maximum load they can handle without damage.
That shouldn’t be a big issue with skateboard stuff, but it’s worth keeping in mind because there are some edge cases where it can matter.
The other issue is spacing - Making sure the space between the bearings is correct, and matches the layout of the bearing seats on the wheels (so you don’t overload the bearings by tightening the axle nut too much, for example).
As long as the spacing is right and the ID and OD fit nicely, you should be okay.
1 Like
For a small, short run, with just a couple devices on it (like two unities connected over canbus, for example), you can just use two wires and omit the termination resistor, because the unities themselves are enough of a termination load.
For longer, more complex runs, the standard termination resistor is 120 ohms, but it’s not really needed for small runs.
2 Likes
What is considered a small run? Just 2 unitys is what will be on the canbus,
I think a small run is anything under maybe a handful of meters or so.
Two unities on an esk8 definitely classifies under “short”.
Canbus can be used over some impressively long distances (hundreds of meters), so it’s that kind of thing where you have to be careful about termination, mostly for noise and reliability reasons.
2 Likes
So simply connecting can H and can L should do the trick eh?
2 Likes
Yep, just two wires between H and L, and you’re off to the races.
2 Likes
So I opened up VESC tool for the first time to program my uBox with included remote, and I’m quite confused at what’s going on. I tried following the tutorials, but things keep popping up. I plug the USB into ESC A, turn the ESC on, and flash custom firmware to both ESCs over CAN. However, once I get into motor detection, it says one is out of date.
I eventually get past motor detection by flashing each ESC separately, but then the remote doesn’t get recognized by the input wizard. After the motor detection, the remote is controlling the board with whatever the default settings are, but the inputs aren’t being received on the tool, and aren’t being overridden by the tool either. I tried setting PPM to ESC A on the remote and double checking which ESC the wizard is looking at, but it’s still not getting recognized. Is there an order I need to turn on each component for it to work?
Also the remote only seems to pair with the ESC if I turn on the remote first, go in settings to Bind, and finally turn the ESC on in that order. Is that expected?
1 Like
I have been running mine off a PPB most recently, but with the Spintend remote, to avoid debinding, I always had to go remote>board to turn on, and board>remote to turn off.
Let me think about the rest, because I don’t remember off the top of my head.
1 Like