Help me not die, brakes suck.

[Alpacaslapper]

10mm

[Alpacaslapper]

The batter is not discharging 60 amps, battery max set to 30.

[ProfoundMagician]

Is that 3d printed mount?

[Alpacaslapper]

Correct, but these symptoms I’ve have on a dickyho aluminum mount as well.

[b264]

Definitely belt skipping. Try a 15mm wide belt and carefully align it.

@b264

Without going into tensioning, which is king, I would say check the alignment very carefully. A belt that’s not aligned well can slip, as @taz mentioned.

Something else that can cause anywhere from minor to massive slipping in a perfectly aligned and tensioned belt, is broken cords. If your belt has broken cords inside, you will typically not see any indication of this by inspecting it (sometimes you can though) but it will just skip like crazy. In that case, failure is imminent anyway and you need to replace it before many more rides. If you check multiple belts, some new, and the skipping persists…

Then check when the skipping is happening. If the worst skipping is happening any other time besides during hard braking, then I don’t know what’s going on. That’s always when the worst skipping happens.

Alignment – the best way I’ve found to perfectly align belts is

• get motor mount (without motor) snug on hanger, then loosen a tiny bit so it moves
• install wheel and pulley with no speedring (washer) between the hanger and inner bearing.
• push motor mount flush up against wheel pulley so they are touching each other
• keep those held tightly together while you tighten motor mount clamps
• make sure mount is flush against, and touching, the wheel pulley, and there is no gap or misalignment
• finish tightening mount clamp all the way
• make sure again that mount is flush against, and touching, the wheel pulley, and there is no gap or misalignment
• when you’re all done, take the wheel and pulley back off, add a single 1mm speedring (washer) and just like that, the pulley will be perfectly aligned and 1mm away from the motor mount plate
• if you need it further away when you are doing tensioning, then add more washers

And also make sure your pulleys are concentric and don’t wobble at all as @taz mentioned. That’s super important.

[Alpacaslapper]

@b264

Definitely belt skipping. Try a 15mm wide belt and carefully align it.

@b264

Without going into tensioning, which is king, I would say check the alignment very carefully. A belt that’s not aligned well can slip, as @taz mentioned.

Something else that can cause anywhere from minor to massive slipping in a perfectly aligned and tensioned belt, is broken cords. If your belt has broken cords inside, you will typically not see any indication of this by inspecting it (sometimes you can though) but it will just skip like crazy. In that case, failure is imminent anyway and you need to replace it before many more rides. If you check multiple belts, some new, and the skipping persists…

Then check when the skipping is happening. If the worst skipping is happening any other time besides during hard braking, then I don’t know what’s going on. That’s always when the worst skipping happens.

Alignment – the best way I’ve found to perfectly align belts is

• get motor mount (without motor) snug on hanger, then loosen a tiny bit so it moves
• install wheel and pulley with no speedring (washer) between the hanger and inner bearing.
• push motor mount flush up against wheel pulley so they are touching each other
• keep those held tightly together while you tighten motor mount clamps
• make sure mount is flush against, and touching, the wheel pulley, and there is no gap or misalignment
• finish tightening mount clamp all the way
• make sure again that mount is flush against, and touching, the wheel pulley, and there is no gap or misalignment
• when you’re all done, take the wheel and pulley back off, add a single 1mm speedring (washer) and just like that, the pulley will be perfectly aligned and 1mm away from the motor mount plate
• if you need it further away when you are doing tensioning, then add more washers

And also make sure your pulleys are concentric and don’t wobble at all as @taz mentioned. That’s super important.

I followed these exact instructions for alignment.

Are there tensioning instructions?

I will order a 15mm belt today.

[Alpacaslapper]

I have so many teeth engaged on the pulley Im shocked if it’s still slipping, but I will mark and test.

[b264]

@Alpacaslapper

Are there tensioning instructions?

Tensioning is kind-of an art form.

My advice is make it as tight as reasonably/easily possible with just your fingers, without using tools to pry on it, and when you pinch the belt around the motor pulley with your fingers it should squeeze about 5mm or so.

There are also tensioning methods that involve plucking the belt with a hex key and using a guitar tuner to tune the belt pitch, but I don’t recommend that. If you do that, maybe 150Hz.

And all my advice is for no idler pulley. I don’t use them anymore… though it does look like you’ve installed it on the correct side. Be 100% sure the idler pulley can’t wiggle.

Hold the motor can and try to force the wheel to spin the same direction it’d be spinning during braking.

[Alpacaslapper]

Tensioner is rock solid, I’ll have to measure the belt and get a shorter one to use this mount without it.

Squeezed

Relaxed

Too loose?

[b264]

@Alpacaslapper

image3024×4032 1.85 MB

Wait, I’m sorry I thought the front was on the left. It looks like the front of the skate is on the right. If that’s the case then the idler may be on the wrong side. You want the tight side of the belt during braking to NOT be on the idler.

[Alpacaslapper]

Hmm, I thought I read the idler is on bottom when inboard mounted.

[Alpacaslapper]

Does slipping usually happen on the motor pulley or the wheel?

[b264]

The idler should be on the slack side when under highest stress, which is during braking.

[b264]

@Alpacaslapper

Does slipping usually happen on the motor pulley or the wheel?

Motor pulley.

[Alpacaslapper]

Ok I’ll install the tensioner on the other side. I’m sure I read it went on bottom though.

[b264]

You might just try to remove it if you have a shorter belt handy.

Some folks like them, but in my experience they are a source of problems and not a cure for me.

[Alpacaslapper]

It’s the only belt I have on hand at the moment. Which is why I added the idler because the mount had to be this exact length to clear the trucks and the battery enclosure when turning. The belt I had was too long.

I just check the thread on the old forum “obsession with idlers” and verified the position was correct. Per that thread. I have another mount, maybe I’ll try an idler on both sides.

[Alpacaslapper]

Still had this problem on my old build with the dickyho mounts and the belt as tight as I could get it, specifically had lost brakes when almost stopped it was unnerving, I had to almost stop trying to break and step off while rolling.

[Alpacaslapper]

Do your brakes take you to a complete stop?

[b264]

In Current control mode, they do. There are a lot of variables. However, I prefer Current Hyst Reverse With Brake which has the double-tap-to-reverse feature which can completely stop you.