by declaring a lower value, the only risk u r taking is, if customs do a random check on ur item and found out u’ve declared a lower than usual value, u will get a penalty.
Chance of the package getting lost is the same, no matter what value u declare it as, unless it was sent out with insurance, then u will get compensation from it
if you declare at 500$ then it gets lost i thought you can get a max of 500$ back?
maybe im wrong though
nope, unless the shipping company do 100% liability for shipping the item, and each company do things differently.
Also, if u have such item of 500 and it has an insurance on top of it, u cannot declare it as less than 500…well u can, but u can get a penalty for that.
ah k thanks a lot
will probably just ask to ship in separate packages or take my chances with declaring it low
Yes, of course
The only thing you can’t do is use two different firmware versions and CANBUS at the same time. Using two different types of ESC is not a problem at all. Just put the same firmware version on them (that doesn’t necessarily mean the same .bin file) with the same tool and you’re fine.
This one can get a little bit more tricky, the general answer is yes, most of the time, do you have any specific details?
so i have a boardnamics 1:2.6 and a 3d servisas 1:3.5 i want to run the 3d sevisas with 190kv motors and the boardnamics with 170kv
That should work fine. Don’t use traction control if you use CANBUS.
Make sure you set Duty Cycle Current Limit Start to 85% or use the variESC tool.
You can get it fixed by @seaborder for example. Anyone with smd soldering skills and the exact drv chip can fix it 
But honestly, I would buy a V6 ESC. DRV errors don’t really occurs on V6 hardware. I know people said certain V4 vescs like the focbox worked flawlessly but j git a DRV blown on my first ride so now I urge every to go V6 unless it’s a small urethane penny board.
How could I wire led strips to my board? I’m looking at outlining the deck and would like to switch off the lights with my remote, but idk what im doing lol
exactly what im planning to do by mid this year 
v4 is so outdated
you need a remote with a relay on the receiver to be able to turn it off remotely.
Such as the maytech remote https://maytech.cn/products/maytech-new-waterproof-remote-control-mtskr1905wf-for-esk8-esurf-with-display-and-wireless-charging-functions
or a mini remote https://diyelectricskateboard.com/collections/remote-controller/products/torqueboards-2-4ghz-mini-remote-controller
(this is ugly but can be modded as such The Avio Mini Remote Mod) it’s a great remote, @b264 is in a very deep relationship with his. 
otherwise you can use a buck converter which will bring down the voltage of your battery pack to a selected voltage (5v-12v-14 etc…) and have a power button on the board to to turn it off and on.
Or use a 5v led strip and a portable powerbank with velcro and power it that way.
Think i’ll try the V6 then😁
Dang i’m running a vx1, so ig that won’t work. Would it be possible to add a button on my remote?
I don’t see what you mean? To control lights wirelessly you need some type of radio signal that is in correlation with the receiver and the remote. @Flasher uses a garage remote and relay…
I don’t really like this méthode because you are adding another device to your remote and you have to find a way to attach it , you also need a buck and the receiver of the garage remote… So you need a lot of space in your enclosure and a fair bit of wiring.
Short answer, no.
Long nswer:
In theory you might be able to reverse-engineer both the remote and receiver to modify them and add a second channel, but it would be a massive waste of time and effort with no guarantee of success, and no real reason to undertake such a project when there are other remotes that have that feature already.
Either get a different remote that has an auxillary channel, or use a different separate remote for the lights, or use your phone (bluetooth), or forget about a remote and just use a switch on the board.
Wait…that’s news to me? I don’t recall using a garage opener 
which light are you referring to? My lightbar, my underglow or my rear turnsignals?
Lightbar uses a picoswitch in conjunction with the channel 3 button on my remote
Underglow is controlled via a dcdc converter and a Bluetooth module
My turnsignals are from a bike accessory I hacked and sawed the shafted switch into the bottom of my remote
I do however have a relay box and a 4 button transmitter for it. But I’ve never put it into a build as better options exist
This might be a stupid question, but can I use a dual VESC for a single motor setup? (It’s a makerx DV6 and I want use 3 phase wires not 6 like the Unity super single fw)
Later on I will get a second motor of course.
Also, with a single motor the motor should be heelside, right?
I will use a regular caliber hanger with this dickyho kit. (only this is in my current budget) I will also upgrade the hanger to something bigger later on when I will go dual (either BN220 or BN270) so it doesn’t have to restrict the motor size. Which motor should I go for that’s about 80€? SK3 6374? I want something available in the EU. And I have some steep hills so I need a motor that’s hard to overheat.
Oh yea I forgot its 2021 already 
UK is no longer EU country, then im not sure where u can get motors in EU.
Paging @b264 about single motor hauling ass up a hill lol