Yes. You can definitely use one half of a dual ESC to run a single motor, and leave the second half unconnected and not doing anything.
You can also theoretically use the two halves to drive a single motor, but that’s a lot more involved and would likely need custom firmware to function properly, as mentioned.
I like the SK3 (And SK8) motors, because they have a skirt bearing which makes them much more robust against developing the dreaded can-rattle that a lot of longer (xx74 and xx80, etc) motors are prone to.
They lose a little bit of cooling and power handling by having some space taken up by that third bearing that could otherwise be filled with more motor-y bits, but IMO it’s worth the trade-off.
Thanks, looks like I will be going with the SK3 then!
One more thing, I would need a high gear ratio because I have 115mm wheels. Would 12T motor pulley work with either a single idler or two idlers? (i will buy dickyho short mount) The next available step up is 14T which would give me speeds that are stupid for a single drive. But I really really want to avoid belt slippage. And 48kph/30mph speed (which is with 12T) is more than enough for me with a single belt drive.
EDIT: I don’t want to go with lower kv than 192 because when I will upgrade, I want 2.8 ratio BN gear drives which will put me at 57 kph top speed which is exactly what I want from a dual drive.
I ask him then, but I rather go 14/44 in that case I just realized the SK3 shaft is not like a normal shaft with a keyway spot… So I will have to figure something out first.
I would stick to 14t or more to avoid skipping, and maybe look into a larger wheel pulley to compensate.
12t is kind of pushing it, especially for a single drive, due to the low number of teeth engaged. You might get away with it with idlers and running the belt a little tighter than a lot of folks do.
That said, motor pulleys are cheap. You could easily start with 12, try it out, and if it skips like crazy then swap to a 14.
The limitation of drilling X material isn’t the drill press, but the drill bits.
Doesn’t matter if you’ve got a one-ton milling machine or a handheld cordless drill, if your bits are made of cheese they won’t work, and if you have good bits, they will work great.
Harder materials do usually need more cutting pressure, as do larger drill bits, so don’t expect to be able to drill 1" diameter holes with a crappy benchtop drill press either way.
The thing is I am not sure how permanent the retaining compounds are for the SK3 shaft. As far as I know I either need to grind the shaft down or use retaining compound like loctite 638. I don’t have access to a torch to burn loctite nor to a dremel to grind it. Do you think using only retaining compound is okay though?
EDIT: I will ask dickyho whether I can have 14/44 because thats still okay ratio for me.
You’re going to need some kind of heat to get the retaining compound off, be it a torch, stove-top, or a candle.
Just retaining compound can work, but it’s iffy. I personally wouldn’t want to leave it that way for more than a test ride while my setscrews were out for delivery.
You don’t need a dremel to put a flat on the shaft, a piece of sandpaper with a straight stick behind it will work too, but it’s just slow as balls.
Okay, so I should flatten it and use a grub screw plus the retaining compound? I have a file somewhere so that should work along with a lot of patience
Proper drill bits made of cobalt high speed steel (Like M35 or M42) are more than capable of handling steel, stainless, and titanium, as well as some hardened steels.
For really hard steel (like a file or something case hardened) you will probably need carbide, which is in a whole other league.
Okay, good to know it wouldn’t work. Then I will try the file. I will also order a replacement shaft along with the motor just in case I f*** it up. It’s only like 5€.
I just realized the SK3 shaft is not like a normal shaft with a keyway spot… So I will have to figure something out first.
