Sadly don’t own any flux at the moment
So trying a mesh splice
Did 400c and solder melted into the wire pretty well
keep applying the heat until the wire soaks up the solder
You need flux.
For pre tinning wire ends, i apply flux to wire end (without cutting casing) then heat up wire and melt solder onto the end. It wicks up the wire below the casing.
When cool, cut casing back and you have a neatly tinned wire end.
Thanks gonna order
Will keep applying heat
And hopefully can get a perfect joint soon
Thanks @PixelatedPolyeurthan @xsynatic and everyone else (can’t remember everyone) got some awesome joints done
Don’t have pics cause I only remembered after I heat shrinked
But they had soaked up a ton of solder
I left the iron on the wire (mesh splice) at 400c for 30sec and then when I pushed in a bit of solder it went straight into the wire
They ended really nice and not much crunch
Thanks again everyone
quote from spintend topic anyone can give any advice
Better, but still wayyyyy too cold. See the line circled? That means the solder wasn’t hot enough to melt to itself, let alone to the wire underneath.
You want to see that blob of solder all melted all at once, and soaking into the wire strands. You should not see any strands without a coating of solder on/between them.
I know literally everyone but me says that. But I’ve been soldering without flux for 30 years. I have it, but I never use it. The solder with flux in the middle has always worked enough for me. Maybe this should go in the confessional.
Actually scratch that – when I go to the factory and use the surface mount workstation, I use liquid flux. But not at home.
Often the flux that is present in the core of decent solder is enough. But that is still flux. I’ve watched people try to do electronics soldering with plumbing solder with zero flux, and it is… painful to watch, to say the least.
(and Halbj’s soldering looks a lot like he’s using plumbing solder. No offense dude, but wow.)
You need at least SOME flux, be it from a pen, a bottle, or the few percent in flux cored solder.
Flux cored solder has flux
You don’t have these issues tho.
If he’s having probs. Flux will help.
How can I find who package is coming from I got a email today saying that a package from Belgium is coming tomorrow and have no clue what I ordered
wait for the package and open it up
that’s the 100% guaranteed way
Is a shortened motor still able to shrug but not spin?
In some kind of locking up.
Theres just a short jerk on one of my motors and then locking up with a slight noise.
Yes, but that’s not an accurate way to tell if you’ve got a short.
Either use a multimeter, or do a hand test.
If you suspect a short, don’t keep trying to use it with the ESC - that’s a great way to damage the ESC.
Thank you, I always do the hand test before trying the maybe “repaired” motor on a bench esc. I have 3 motors with the same problem, but they dont damage the esc at all.All of them passed my QC handtest hahahhha but failed in the end. On the bench I just try slightly IF it works or not and it mostly did not on these motors The motors look good, no damages to see; but I think they gave up bc of contact of the magnets to the stator for some reason. The reason was broken screws which holding the cans ;ninja;
Multimeter still on my list
Where can I source high quality kingpins for caliber IIs?
If you know the specs of the bolt you need, McMaster Carr sells really high quality stuff. Grade 10 or 12.9 should be plenty strong enough.
Hi
I just managed to get my vesc going and one wheel seems to spin faster than the other one could someone please help, it’s got latest vesc tool and firmware and is wired up correctly.
Thanks
By spin faster do you mean, start spinning earlier but eventually catch up to the other wheel?
Probably once you stand on it the problem will disappear.