They crunch a bit when I flex them
Is that bad
Will give them a bit more heat
you can’t be terrible forever.
I was terrible. bigger soldering tip helped. higher temps to compensate for smaller tips.
thinking of these things helped me (hold on this may seem bonkers):
The soldering iron is trying to hold the temp you set it to. Its heater outputs heat at some rate into the tip. The temperature x mass of the tip is like a “volume of heat” a heat bank if you will.
when you touch the wire, the “heat bank” (tip) starts dumping heat into the wire.
The wire is like a bowl with a hole in it. you’re trying to fill up your working area with heat, but it’s also pouring away down the rest of the wire, so you need heat to get into your working area faster than it wicks away.
once the “heat bank” (tip) drains you’re all out of heat buffer and you’re only adding heat at the rate your soldering iron can add heat.
so, bigger tip. higher temp, or heavier duty heater in your soldering iron all help with soldering to bigger bits of metal, which are able to drain away more heat.
idk… maybe that wasn’t as helpful as I wanted it to be. but hopefully it makes sense.
Definitely don’t consign yourself to being bad at an important DIY skill like soldering. you hack at enough things that spending more time redoing and practicing will pay off for you in the long term in skill.
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Cheers man
Giving it another try tomorrow big tip 70watts and 400c
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That isn’t enough. I do my thick connections at 450-480C. Basically as hot as the iron will go.
The solder only needs to get hot enough to melt, but the problem is getting enough heat into those fat wires. At 350c at the iron tip, it’s nearly impossible to get enough heat transfer to get the joint above 250c.
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Anybody’s know what size the bolts for bergs be I think they m5 but what length. 
@Bobby I know you have bergs for days I’d you happen to know 
Give me a sec. ill get one and measure it
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So i use the yellow wera to undo them and they are for sure 30mm long. Not sure if that wera is m4 or m5 tho…
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Here’s how to solder thick silicone cables the right way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7t9nT3Hn9b0
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Sweet that’s m5. Dopeeee 
Thanks bruddaa owe ya one 
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Is it coil whine? (once you learn about it you will never be the same about crappy electronics)
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ah really dont think so. I think like @xsynatic mentioned that its standard for hobbywing esc. No problems so far with on this one.
Just was confused about hearing that kind of “noise” from the esc.
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I think it could be an extremely similar effect, because there are voltage stepping components onboard and the lower quality ones of those usually make noise.
The way you worded that response make it sound like you think coil whine would only be with a defective product but nearly all power electronics do this somewhat pretty sure.
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Oh no, that was not meant this way. I know sounds like this from electronics of all kind here and there, just never heard something like this from an esc, but I didnt had so much reference at hand about esc so far, so there is that.
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Thanks gonna go as high as I can
Ordered new wire and connectors coming today and hopefully can get some clean joints done
Will post pics when done
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Go for the higher gear ratio (5.2:1), and then use a higher KV motor / higher voltage battery & ESC to compensate for the speed. The higher the gear reduction, the less work your motors will have to do to give you the same amount of torque. 
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Thank you rusins
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much better than before, but i personally would also add more solder so they also fill to the end of both sides, kinda like a big blob of solder when its done
don’t forget about the heatshrink
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Won’t gonna go on the side as I haven’t put the bullet connector on yet
Just making sure it’s ok before doing the others
Will add a bit more solder
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looks to me like you havn’t pre tinned the wire. this is step one. step two you join the wires together using pliers or alligator crimps. if you try a mesh splice then you’ll need a lot more heat.
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