Hey all I seem to have melted a small part of the housing of an xt90 that I was soldering as my wife was rushing me (that’s my story mmkay?). I think it’s pretty minor and I’ve got shrink between it and the connections. Joints are good. Should I solder another on or can I just go with this one?
1 Like
So I should be able to remove that metal ring?
I’d run it brother. But honestly it’s just a couple minutes to swap it if you’re nervous.
3 Likes
The metal ring is probably a spacer to allow smaller (608?) bearings to fit. If you have appropriate bearings and you don’t need the ring, you can certainly remove it.
It will probably be a tight press fit, or possibly loctited, so it may be a bitch to remove them.
I’m having a proper brain fart, could you clarify what I need to connect to wire this charge only?
I get the balance wire bit, and C- to charge socket negative, but do I need to connect B- if B- is already connected to the balance connector point?
When I’ve encountered the “too long, then too short” problems, sometimes just making it so long that each wire has a loop, then you can get it to fit perfectly as the loops can grow and shrink
If you’re running it charge only, and
If it has a B0 balance wire (not all do), and
If you’ve double-checked with a multimeter 0.0Ω conductivity between B0 and B-, and
If the JST connecter is rated for your max charge current, and
If the balance wire AWG is rated for your max charge current, then
you can safely not connect the B- wire at all.
And don’t forget to fuse your charge port.
It’s really handy to only have the balance connector and one small charge negative wire connected to the BMS, but not always possible. Frequently, one of those requirements will not be met. Usually the 3A rating on the JST connector excludes all 4A charging setups.
2 Likes
Ya Imma run it. I knew it was pretty minor but better safe than sorry. Cheers and thx homie 
If space wouldn’t be the limiting factor it probably work really good.
1 Like
I think going back to xt60 probably solves some of them… I’m never able to pull 90A anyways. I just like to have a buffer.
1 Like
I abandoned XT90 (and 10AWG wire) a long time ago except where I need antispark feature, like on the loopkey.
XT60 is fiiiiiiine for all but the most extreme racing/offroad setup
3 Likes
I think the most i ever managed to pull was 64A and that only for 1 1/2 seconds or so, the other few seconds after that at around 50-55A. But that was deliberately going almost full speed up a very steep hill for testing purposes.
Maybe now with my suicide Jedboxes i might be able to pull it for longer (testing was on 4.12 hw) but there hasn’t been a single reason or opportunity to do it.
So xt60 definitely should be enough.
here is a normal run:
peak 48A and average a measly 9A on my mtb
1 Like
nice distance, which pack do you have
Those are “combined rides”. 1 ride, 2 batteries. Both 12Ah. Once dead i swap to nr 2.
one 12s1p Lipo and the other 10s4p 30q.
I would love to go even further but i need a new battery to do so.
1 Like
Vintage Brian.
1 Like
Can someone clear my mind?
If i upgrade from 100mm urethane wheels to 150mm pneumatic wheels, i gain in theory 25mm extra clearance from the ground?
But then in practice, around 20mm, right? Cause air tires squish, somewhat.
1 Like
You can use those for shody body work on a car in a pinch if you are trying to install subs that don’t fit into your trunk. Wouldn’t recommend if you ever plan on selling said car for a decent price after though.
You are correct. Its an increase in diameter by 50 mm thereby giving you an extra 25mm from the axle in all directions.
1 Like
Do these look good?
ESC:
Battery:
For battery wiring -
red = copper braid S connections
blue = cooper braid P connection for split P pack
purple = Positive charge port
orange = negative charge port
BMS: Can I skip B- lead since I have B- port, or do I need both wired?
