Dumb q: what do you guys use to get the thick mud caking off the board?
Also, what works best to finish up cleaning? I figured wet baby wipes do the job way too good until now
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The one thing I can help with on the forum!
So the resistance on the bushings when turning feels linear. When you want to turn right you don’t have to fight the bushing, but when you stop the turn and want to center again they pop right back.
They react the same when hitting bumps. Every. Single. Time. It depends on weight and rider skill but for myself every time I hit a bump or pothole the truck goes right left and then centers straight again. No matter the speed. I hit a bump doing mid 40’s and because I had taught myself how the truck reacts I didn’t even notice it.
They have 5 points of adjustability. There is 3 holes that dampen or make the truck react more. The lowest of the 3 makes it more stable and less squirrelly etc. Then you can change the angle on the actual Hangar itself. It’s hard to explain unless you’ve seen them but once you select 1, 2, or 3 you can then further adjust it by moving up or down where the radius rod connects to the truck.
The fifth point is super special. It can be lifted and lowered. What? Like a car you can lift the trucks up as well as slam it to the ground within 10minutes. This means you can lift it up for crappy/off road use and then drop it for smooth streets.
This wont make sense until you ride them but… They are crazy stable AND crazy turny. Currently I have my bushing finger tight, literally finger tight, and I can do high 30’s low 40’s with ease. Without adjusting them I can also do short track racing on them and out turn any RKP, Channel, and TKP truck we’ve had come.
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That’s super cool, bookmarking that post haha
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Yeaa uhh there isn’t much I can add to what was just said 
. I lack the knowledge and he got most of it.
I can say tho they are nice and pretty insane… I think @Arzamenable alluded to it in a post I can’t find but these things are versatile. Carvy at low speeds and nice and firm the faster you go 
Crazy
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i charged my battery for the first time and it only went to 40.2 V, it’s a 10s pack. My charger outputs exactly 42V. Could this be a bms problem?
What bms do you have? It could be the bms preventing a full charge, and not necessarily a problem with anything
cheap chinese one, kinda like a daly one
Hmm I’m not sure then; I know with smart BMSs they have configurable cutoffs so i was thinking maybe it was that. Maybe try asking here if no one else knows here 
On another note, maybe check your p pack voltages too? Not sure if it’s helpful but it can’t hurt to rule those out
Glad I could help
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Those sound really good. I can’t wait until they are commercially available.
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Damn, now it sounds extremely sexy.
The only thing that stopped me from dreaming about chasing cars on urethane was the stabillity. But now it’s not the case anymore I think.
Time to learn kinematics
P.S: daaamn, how stable it will be on tb110…
P.P.S: And with the height adjusted to minimal it could be an ultraboard even on 97s…
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I’d suggest leaving it on the charger for a couple hours - It’s entirely possible the BMS is preventing a full charge because the cells aren’t perfectly balanced.
If one cell reaches 4.2 before the others, the BMS will stop the charging until it can bleed that high cell down. That process will repeat until all the cells are balanced, and can take several hours or more depending on the pack size and balance current.
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It’s been a while and I need to rebuild my setup - duel 6374 190kv motors with flipsky 6.6 pro. One the the mounts is going bad.
Question: can I rerun vesc tool and just run a single motor setup without having to open up the vesc enclosure to tinker with the vesc?
Not without a fancy bluetooth module, and you shouldn’t run a single motor with a dual ESC
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Okay. I have Bluetooth Module running the vesc app. If that’s what you mean.
I think you would need a METR and the ESC running ACK 3+ to do that, not 100% what the right way is but a typical HM-10 isn’t going to do it
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Oh okay thanks again.
Edit: found out flipsky duel uses 2 individual vesc on a single pcb so it’s possible to run single motor.
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My dual 4. 12 vesc sometimes cuts out on one vesc. Its kind of random, but happens more often at high speeds / over rocks (vibrations). I notice that the board is breaking (mostly due to having only half the power because one vesc just turned off).
While trying to not fall off my board, I notice that my davega restarts.
What could be the issue?
I really assume it’s a bad solder joint of the VESC to the battery, causing the VESC to have loose connection.
Someone agrees with that?
Not really that amused to open up the enclosure again…
To clarify:
The VESC turns on again by itself and the davega just restarts, but for a moment, one vesc and the davega are off, which nearly throws me off my board.
