Cut above that, uncover the wire to the line, solder, double heatshrink and put one more final heatshrink on top
Edit: if it’s live only do one at a time!
Edit: if it’s live only do one at a time!
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Wait, so cut above the line. Expose some wire to solder on the connector side.
Also expose/remove the damaged insulation from the bottom one but keep the cable, solder the snipped end to it again and just cover with heatshrink?
yes its live
If none of the strands are broken and I can clearly see that they aren’t, I would cover it with MG Chemicals #4223, about five coats, it will be like new insulation.
If any strands are broken though I would go a different route.
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Blue: no good
Green: (start) cut - then along it peel off to orange
Solder ends, remember to put the heatshrink on the wire first and connect the connector to it’s pair if it tends to melt
One wire at a time! Bad, finger cooking sparks happen if not
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Ah yes, now it clicked.
So far i haven’t seen any broken strands. So i might go brians route, although i only have MG #419D and some liquid tape. Maybe liquid tape and then heatshrink, done.
Using sealants inside heatshrink is also a good route. If you shrink the heatshrink while the sealant is still wet, it seems to work really well.
Sometimes I will shrink the bottom of the heatshrink, then “pour” or drip a small amount of sealant into the unshrunk part, then shrink the rest
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Sounds like a plan. Liquid tape and heatshrink it is!
This is using that method, it’s solid sealant inside there, and the joint is stronger than the wire on either side.
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How do i realistically calculate charging time and energy?
Let’s say, a 12s4p 12Ah with 4A charger took f o r e v e r, over 3 hours
Now, with a 8A charger, i think it took some under 2 hours, but.
If i want to charge partially, on the go, up to what percentage can i expect to have a somewhat linearity between time and energy that goes in the pack?
Basically i want to know how much 15, 20, 30 minutes of charge would put back in my pack and from what point it gets too complicated to bother calculating
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The amount of charge you put in is always the same up until the CC/CV point is reached and the charge current starts to taper off. 4A for 1 hour puts in 4Ah. 4A for 1/2 hour puts in 2Ah, etc. The charge going in is easily calculated but the effect on the battery voltage is not linear though. And you have a little bit of inefficiency to account for.
I usually add 1/2 hour for the final CV stage but that depends on the charge rate. The faster the charging the longer the CV stage lasts. And add on balancing time too.
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The cv stage is… the point from where i can read in vesc 50.4v, even though the pack is still technically charging?
I think my charger just turns green as soon as it hits pack voltage. Fans off and all, but i know it’s still charging because it raises from 50.3/4 to 50.4/5 at really full
Balancing… eh… it’s got plenty of time charging all nights
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Yes, it’s when the pack reaches its fully charged voltage but the charger still needs to keep “topping off” the pack as the lithium ions find the nooks and crannies in the cells and settle in. This lowers the voltage a touch so the charger keeps the current flowing, and the voltage at the charge voltage setting, until the charging current has dropped far down enough. This indicates that the nooks and crannies are pretty well filled in and that the charging can stop.
At high charge rates the CV stage starts at a lower voltage. This is due to the effect of the battery’s internal resistance and how it “fools” the charger. We don’t need to worry about this as the charger will just keep on going until the charge current drops to a low enough level.
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That makes sense if you think about it. A 4A charger will add 4Ah per hour. So you need at least three hours (4Ah x 3 = 12Ah), plus the extra for CV/tapering off/balancing. So yeah, I’d expect somewhere around 3.5 hours to fully charge a 12Ah pack with a 4A charger.
I’d say around 80-85%. Depends on a lot of factors.
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Awesome, thanks for quick answer
Is this too tight?
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Yes, adjust it so that its barely not slipping when you hold the wheel and try to turn the motor hard. Then go for a short ride and try to brake hard. If that doesn’t slip its good. If it does slip tighten a bit more
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Can someone explain me advantages of the 3-link truck design? They look so sexy & designing such a thing would be a good learning challenge for me.
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I’m pretty sure they are very stable at high speeds and have a unique turning experience. I have never ridden them tho
What would you guys say about 3 link
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Yep. Too tight. Get the motor a mm or so closer
If it’s too loose you will hear the belt “clicking” when braking. You need to make it slightly tighter in that situation.
But too tight damages the bearings, including the ones in the motors
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Let’s just say the board can go faster than I am willing to go
I love the fact that you can change just about anything to it for super advanced fine tuning.
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