Or shit yourself. Optional
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Yeah this is essentially what happened yesterday - had to make a trip so took the board instead of car, rained while out. Took the journey home slower but clearly not slow enough. As good as 110 72As are, they’re not water friendly at all. Live and learn 
and start building a geardrive numie board.
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I’ve ridden TB110 in heavy thunderstorms before. Because, like you said, I was out and despite the forecast of sunny skies, I am 10 miles (16km) from home and all of a sudden it’s a thunderstorm.
So while I would almost never choose to do it, it can be done, and with ease. You just have to act like you’re skating on ice. Don’t lean hardly at all and make big smooth arcs. And slow, go slow. Half normal speed. Less than half if it’s really bad. Don’t roll over wet leaves, or if you do, pretend they are kicking your back trucks out. Because they are 
It’s not an insurmountable problem.
Like driving a car in snow. Would most folks choose to drive in snow? F**K NO. But do they? Well, life doesn’t stop because it snowed. Cars drive in snow all the time. They do it real slow and careful. Thane on water is just the same.
Thane on snow, on the other hand, is something else entirely… and yes, it is very possible. Yes, it’s far, far worse than water.
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second this- when its wet skate walking speed to stay at health.
Its deadly when its wet, no matter which wheels.
Some are better than others, but deadly while turning with slow speeds anyways.
High speeds not to mention.
peace
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Riding in rain is fun!
Riding in snow is even more fun!
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One time my business partner told me to go deposit this paper check in the business account… if I want to get paid this week… it was a heavy, heavy thunderstorm and the bank closed in 30 minutes.
That was a wet ride…and I set out on purpose in it.
But usually I avoid the rain.
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So i got a crash the other day, since then i got some weird jerks at low speed like sudenly breaking or sudenly accelerating for like half a second
I didn’t find any disconected phase wire, and the remote receiver seems alright
No sign of water of anything on the est
Focbox unity with two sk8 6375 190kv
EDIT : i found the culprit, one of the phase wire was indeed broken, but inside of his shrink so it was not obvious form the outside
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hahahha…better than walking home of course hahahahha
I ride my mtb on the street for about 2km and I go back home and start carving in the garden of my house more than anything doing turns and practicing jumps, after about 10 or 15 minutes I see that the motors begin to lose strength and I check the temperature of these (with my hand) and I can touch them well without burning, I check the temperature of the unit and it is at 70 ° but I do not put more than 60a to the motor and 120a between the two motors, now I do not know if I have to Change either the esc or the motors, maybe it is that I left the phase cables of the motors long and put them in the box of the vesc and that this is overheating it or that something has been damaged when the vesc got wet. For reference dualsk3 6474 192kv Chain drive 9-40 unity 12s4p p42a 40psi
Let’s be realistic here. @kntzn, you’re not gonna get Cheap, AND Reliable, AND 5KW. Pick any two.
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Is it a bad idea to cover the wires with the black hot glue (then shrink tubing /wrapping) on a jst connector instead of using silicone?
Check out the chargers anubis sells. You might get a good deal with international shipping from the uk
I took 2 falls and had to footbrake once to avoid smashing into a van to finally swore off urethane wheels.
The only (i mean THE only) circumstance where a thane might get a better brake is on wet compressed sand, due to the larger contact patch.
With pneumatics i commute to work in any weather and besides the shit it slings at me, got no complaints
Also, try out traction control! It is very, very good at avoiding locking up wheels (as long as at least one wheel still has traction*)
Sounds like no airflow, both because you were in your yard not doing 30/hour and because you could touch the cans even though the stator (where the temp sensor is) was 70°C
Basically, if you want to never overheat some motors designed to run at 70A and ran at even 100A, get open can motors, even with fan designs
I read the temperature when I saw the failure of the motors with xmaatic in the unit
as recommended to put air flow when looking for it to be against water?
A battle hardened (or at least with a layer of conformal coating on) open can motor is way better than a sealed motor of the same spec.
They all never live to see over 3000km anyway…
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Super stupid question, but can I use one UART port on my FSESC 6.6 dual for my flipsky VX1, and the other UART port for a flipsky nrf51 blutooth module?
yes
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