Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Shouldn’t really be that way. Maybe you’re bottlenecked by battery amps?
Does it spin up fast when unloaded?

If you want it to respond faster try lowering “Positive Ramping Time” or changing throttle curves.

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I think under the app settings(?) theres a place you can adjust the throttle curve. I can’t remember off the top of my head

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Same settings except what the motor detection wizard gives out, different acceleration curves.
Also same battery, which is bottlenecked anyway over around 40% duty cycle.
Tried a few other boards this weekend which definetly feel more sluggish or lively in both acceleration and/or braking, but the main point seems snappy acceleration on small cans (50xx) with terrible brakes

Maybe it’s just the added inertia of the huge cans, amplified by the high rpm

Perfectly aware of the entire app config layout and functions, definetly not that

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i tried :laughing:

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What would you consider more “harmful”

discharging “low” (32ish V on 10s) everytime or fully charging every time but not discharging as deep. (cutoff is 41.8v)

Have you tried changing the throttle ramping time yet?

I’d lean more towards a deeper discharge than a full charge.

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Make sure you set the failsafe

Then you can change the App_Settings>General>APP_to_Use to “PPM and UART” and change App_Settings>PPM>Control_Type to “Current Hyst Reverse With Brake”

Hi, if i want to run two separate vescs off one battery, do i use a reverse parallel connector?

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If by “reverse” parallel connector you mean a connector that takes one battery connection and has two output connectors in parallel, then yes.

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So quick question. I’m getting a battery with a box for top-mount but my bindings are too close together by about 3 inches so box wont fit. Question is if i drill new holes and move the bindings apart will it compromise the integrity of the deck?

Not if you’re careful. Use a high quality sharp bit and run it at an appropriate speed, and you should be fine.

If you’re worried about it you can always fill the new hole with some epoxy before inserting your fasteners, or epoxy in a metal insert to prevent any possible layer debonding.

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I’m a total nOOb to crimping my own connectors; I want to crimp some 2.0 mm JST connectors for NRF modules, will these crimpers work?

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-AWG24-12-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B07G98DLB8/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/136-7246829-3495802?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07G98DLB8&pd_rd_r=8458b6df-5509-4a09-8eba-97aceaa8b486&pd_rd_w=y9sBt&pd_rd_wg=j5yX4&pf_rd_p=ce6c479b-ef53-49a6-845b-bbbf35c28dd3&pf_rd_r=NT9FM7N96VPRKVSQKSBT&psc=1&refRID=NT9FM7N96VPRKVSQKSBT

or does someone have a pair they particularly recommend? thanks =)

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Tried. From 0.1 to 1s, throttle expo from 0 to -20% as well.
Brakes are sharp, acceleration is not

What is the hanger size on your calibers?
184mm?

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These work great. My go-to cheap but reliable crimpers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AVVO7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_LnAAFbXBDX1A8

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USD $239, Really? just looked and website says $319 (I assume its USD) am I reading this wrong

It’s because all three ESCs are on the same listing and the webshop shows the cheapest price.
The 100S is $239
The 60D is $319

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