I’m guessing google picked up the price of the s100 that’s not available
Edit @bollen beet me to it
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ended up going with these:
I got theses ones the ratchet is not needed for such small crimps and I fined it hindered more than helps
How much tyre sealant do I use on 8 inch pneumies?
What do you think about rheostatic brakes?
Is it important for this maytech vesc?
Whenever you brake moderately/hard, you actually use rheostatic brakes (bc your mechanical energy goes into the heat on the mosfets and the motor itself). Otherwise, regenerative braking takes place.
I did not get what you mean honestly but that is what i wanted to mark up. But if I got you, yeah, rheostatic braking is mandatory feature of any ESC used in esk8…
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Yup 184mm
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Do these wheel pulleys sit flush with the wheels plane? Or they are few mm offset to the truck’s center?
I’m just trying to estimate how wide trucks I need to fit dual 6374…
I mean u can buy this thingie as a additional feature on their website
Sorry I don’t get your question 
I think you’ll need a minimum of 218mm or 220mm for dual 6374s; how I have my motors/mounts set up are more or less the maximum distance the motors can be from each other.
Question. If my motors sounds like they’re in BLDC mode when it was programmed in FOC, does that mean that the hall sensor is broken?
Edit: just did a small test and it sounds like it.
Edit 2: nope. It was actually the solder joint that came off. Gotta love NYC hills and bumps.
That only allows you to brake once your battery is full and you continue braking.
This is ONLY useful if
- you are using the exact voltage it’s rated for (10S in this case), AND
- you are are discharging through the BMS, AND
- you live or work at the top of a giant hill and will frequently brake down the hill on a full charge
If any of those are not true, then don’t get that
There is a case where you can brake so much on a full battery that the BMS cuts off charging [because it’s overcharged] and at that time you will loose all brakes because there is no place for the energy to go. This device will burn off energy as heat (though not as much power as the battery can take in) and allow further braking past that point.
In real life, that point is mostly theoretical and rarely reached in practice, but under just the wrong conditions it could happen.
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Are there any ways I can disassemble the old FS motors that have the motor can screws glued in? Without destroying it, that is
heat gun or hair dryer?
I’ll give it a shot, I’m not sure what adhesive they used is all…
After watching a vid from Average Eskate Reviews I’m thinking of changing my build from reverse kingpin (Calliber 2 bp with Bourdnamics hanger) to double kingpin because of the maneuverability they offer. I’ve no clue were to start for this, as I don’t see many belt drive systems with DKP. My question is which decent brand should I be looking at for DKP (and can I use my cal 2 base-plate with DKP hanger?) and also, will the they work with my 6374 belt motors? Also, why are there not many builds with DKP?
most likely no
if the hangers are wide enough they’ll work just fine
Ownboard have DKP hangers that you can get 63xx mounts for
You can also use evolve trucks but you will need a new mount for 63xx motors since the original motors are smaller diameter and have the wrong bolt pattern
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Very helpful, I’ve found a site that sells these.
I’ve also heard about Kahua DKP trucks, but can’t seem to find an obvious supplier (in EU), do you know where people source these from?
Haven’t heard about the kahua DKP, but haggyboard is moving to spain so you should be able to order straight from there once they have the new shop set up
I suppose the reason people are going for RKP is that they are more stable at speed vs DKP
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