@Trampa do you know when you next stock of 9" mudpluggers are coming? I see your stock went down super quickly 
i wonder why lol
Well I found at least one closely related:
https://forum.esk8.news/t/what-are-your-top-10-tools/
Guess I should look into tagging things see if I can keep better track of particular posts hard to search for “tool” related posts since vesc tool mentioned so much.
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Great catch; done.
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I would need to check that. They are in production at this stage.
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The IMU differs. MK IV uses the BMI 160
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Does anyone know what might be causing my belt to move from one side of the pulley to the other?
Misaligned motor plate? Uneven truck cut? (to fit the wheel pulley in cal2 trucks)
Misalignment somewhere in the system. Probably the plane of the motor mount is not normal to the centerline of the axle/truck. Only takes a tiny fraction of a degree to cause it.
Could also be the mount itself bending, or the motor shaft, or a million other things.
Basically treat everything as if it’s made of rubber and you won’t be disappointed.
That amount of migration is probably acceptable though.
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It’s kinda hard misaligning the clamp on those trucks, and it doesn’t look like your wheel pulley is crooked, so I would check to see if the motor plate is even remotely bent
But I agree that it’s not a big deal if it moved that much
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Im building a 12s7p p42a battery and want to be able to pull 160 amps continuous from it (80a per motor), do I need to wire each series connection to be able to carry 160 amps? So 4x 8ga. stranded wire per series connection, or is it cumulative as in all the series connections need to handle a total of at least 160 amps?
Yes.
No, double 10AWG is okay for each series connection and two 10AWG exiting the battery (two red 10AWG and two black 10AWG), probably each pair going to its own XT90
But I must ask, 160A continuous at 12S is an assload of power. Are you trying to hit 70mph? Or just beat a musclecar off the line?
Continuous and Peak (or Instantaneous) are vastly different
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I don’t expect to actually use that much current but since the motors (tb 6380) and Vesc are rated for 80a cont. each I didn’t want to leave anything on the table by under building the battery. I suspect the motors getting hot will be the limiting factor anyway based on the current setup.
Nice, I like that idea don’t need a splitter for the esc’s anymore.
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Recommendations for extended caliber 2 style trucks that aren’t from BN or TB? Tb has been out of stock for a while now (kinda salty their site didn’t reflect that) and I’d prefer to not spend as much as how much the BN ones cost (though if there aren’t any other good options in the US I’ll probably go with them)
BN are the cheapest CNC trucks you can get I’m afraid. Trampa and 3d servisas cost more.
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The new generation of Boardnamics trucks and mounts are absolutely spectacular, I think the fixed axles are out of stock so you need to fuck with shoulder bolts and the inner threads may need cleaning but other than that they are amazing quality and they go together without issues. However I would try and source some M4x20 socket head bolts and M4 nylock nuts to connect the mount plate to the clamp and then you can use the M4x8 socket head bolts as motor face plate screws
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You could try and sweet talk @BuildKitBoards into selling some truck’s. They aren’t listed on his site atm though.
Sooo… my hummie, with 50° baseplates, in drop-through, with pneumatics, turns like a bus…
It feels absolutely amazing and is so stable i could take bets on riding with no kingpin nuts on, but i do want to take sharp turns on this damn thing!
Is there any other way to increase the turning angle besides top mount or adjustable baseplates?
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Lower durometer bushings? Maybe shortening the wheelbase?
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Bushings not a problem. Experimented with 95, 92, 90’s and stuck with: back - 92 board 90 road barrels / front - 90 barrel board and 90 cone road. I can max out the lean angle on them…
Might be that my feet are basically under the height of the pivot cups and there’s just no more leaning possible like that 
Shortening the wheelbase on a hummie is next to impossible without compromising looks and strength
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