It could even be done with a file rather than a dremel.
Or you could take just a whisker off the side of each offending screw.
Neither are the most elegant solution, but they’ll both work and I’d try them before resorting to screws with a smaller drive.
If you must resort to smaller drives, it might be worth getting Torx ones instead of hex. More expensive, but a lot harder to strip.
Funny, this is the exact same problem I just had
Yup file or dremel is a good idea.
Or find a way to mount the pulley in you powerdrill (away from your esk8 magnets) and attack the fucker with a file at full speed.
Little info on the side: shoulders can be removed with a pair of pliers, they are only pressfit. But then I think you might have the belt wanna fight the bolts
Call me crazy but I really like the way Boosted did braking/reverse and I aim for that on all of my builds. I live in a dense city and fast/powerful reverse has saved my ass a couple times.
hmm. this is not what it did fo me. it seemed to jump to fixed duty cycle. so it was either way to slow or it tried to peel out if you upped max duty cycle. maybe I have misunderstood it.
After installation of davega X into friends Trampa (2x vesc6+), his vesc with davega loses power sometimes during ride. This is irritating, even dangerous because his brakes are much weaker with only one wheel drive.
Sometimes he has to power off and then back on his vesc to get it working, sometimes it starts to work by itself. We did motor detection/setup once again, nothing changed. All wires and solder joints look good. Where could be the problem?
boosted is the same as “current”. ie full reverse.
some drawbacks are you can spinout while braking. loosing traction.
panic braking can result in reverse shootouts.
people not used to reverse will also result in reverse shootouts even without panicing.
still i’ve used it for lack of a better option say on stock unity firmware.
You night be overloading the 3.3v LDO on the board.
Reverse shootouts are the worst.
Still trying to get used to that myself.
Might go back to Current Hyst Reverse With Brake
1.7s smart reverse ramp up time, 7% max duty cycle. I find that getting it to accelerate too fast makes it either cog while still on hall sensors or just take me by surprise with the torque
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I’m 95% sure it’s plugged into 5v pin. You think this still can be problem? If yes, what can we do about it?
Depends on the hardware, is it a 1.0 or 1.1 Davega?
As for what you can do about it, there is a multitude of options, the first being identifying whats causing the vesc to stop working.
I didn’t think it was set like this, but this must have been part of my troubles:
I like that your vid shows control that I didn’t think was there.
Yep. That ramp time is definetly a problem. Default is 3s and it’s slooooww. Try 1.5, 7% duty.
Do note that letting go and braking again, first brakes, then ramps up smart reverse again. Also forward brakes, then starts forward automatically. No negative erpm bugs here as far as o know
Hey dooods, can I attach them mosfets directly to the alu heat sink or do I need thermal paste or something in between?
You probably* can but I highly recommend a small amount of paste.
Thank you, Joe 
If my Vesc voltage limit is 60v
My hubMotor its 48v 800w
Do you think with my 14s battery configuration can it be at risk my vesc?
Because the battery at fully charge its going to be 58.8v
Only 1.2volts to reach the limit of the vesc (60v).
What do you Suggest?
