Yeah thats risky, any time you regen brake with a full battery your voltage will easily spike over 60V. Even 12s suffers from this. Look into the newer Trampa VESC’s, Stormcore 100S or a https://www.discoverzesc.com/raiden7-series
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13s is risking it already, at 14s it might get fried just with slightly stronger brakes
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60v is the point where your vesc gets permanent damage. When you brake with a full or anywhere near full battery you get voltage spikes or up to 10V over the battery pack voltage.
Stick to what everyone else uses, 12s, or 13s if you really want to live dangerous.
…or just get a damn stormcore
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With my mosfets on the v4 vescs i have paste and a thermal pad with directfets on the jedboxes
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Is it possible for the voltage of a pack to go up after cooling down?
Just charged my bikes 20s battery. It cut at 84.2v (kinda pissed me off a little). But now that it’s been about an hour without the charger plugged in, it reads 84.4v??
No, I haven’t bought wire yet! I’ve never built a board before so have no idea apart from all the components that everyone knows are necessary, of what else I need. I don’t even know what these cables link between, or indeed what type of cable I’d need (2/3 core etc) do they link between esc and battery? Between batter and bms? Something else?
Please don’t. Use silicone insulated multi stranded wires. They will become your best friend
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That’s the balancing function of the bms. It discharges overcharged cells, charges all of them a little, back to discharging rogue ones, until they all read 4.2v and you get maximum pack voltage.
But yes, cells when discharging do sag a bit and come back to their voltage in like 10-15min. It’s the most obvious if you take a hill at speed and then look at the voltage for about 1 minute
Also keep in mind that the esc might not be accurate in readings. My trampa vescs read 50.7 and 50.5v on a 50.3~4v pack
Or maybe this is easier to work with… doesn’t mention heat resistant on this though - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CZB6DS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qZGrFbE71V72T
Either will work, any silicone wire will be quite heat resistant (at least 200C, sometimes higher.) and flexible. The stuff with 1050 strands will be a little nicer than the 680 stuff.
You need wire anywhere power is flowing. You need thick wire anywhere lots of power is flowing.
So between the battery and the ESC. And between the P-groups of the battery itself. If you’re bypassing the BMS for discharge you won’t need thick wires going to it.
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I just tried to add my bt module to my 4.12 vesc with ackmaniac fw but it does not work. No Data is received. Baud 9600, uart activated. Is the module compatible and if not which Module will work?
I don’t think the nrf51 works with ackmaniac, you will need an HM-10 module for that.
The nrf51 does work with the normal vesc app.
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All wires are silicone wires that are usually AWG 8-24.
Depending on cells, the bms and anything electrical, you may need to know what current is being pushed and solder the wires accordingly. It’s very simple to understand once you get the hang of it.
The annoying thing is not having the necessary equipments. Sad times.
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Damn… Does any Hm 10 work or Do they have differences?
Why are prototipos so rare when I want one all of a sudden 
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Thanks. Im using a 12s4p nese module and 50a (per motor) esc…what kind of solder/soldering technique will I need for this? (And what equipment are you saying aren’t available?)
Thank you, I’ll get the wire you preferred then. Maybe I can even get the same specced one on eBay for cheaper
I think you should be able to use any HM-10 module.
The HM-10 will work with Ackmaniac firmware (and very old Trampa Firmware) but not newer Trampa firmware.
The nrf51 modules works with the newest Trampa firmware.
Ok thanks, I ordered another module. I want to stay with Ackmaniac 
One last question, I’m using the http://apex bms and this maker-x esc - do they to come with all the wires already attached? (As in do I need to buy more cable?)