Yes, those both work. Both say 200°C on the sheath. I’d use 12AWG unless you have a reason to use 10AWG.
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Thanks @b264 Do the esc and bms I linked above have the cables attached already or will need to buy more?
I think it should work, but Flipshit baudrate had to be 115200.
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I don’t know what BMS that is and the link is broken.
The ESC will come as in the photo. You will probably need a decent soldering iron, solder, heatshrink, and such things for DIY esk8.
I cut the factory connectors off and use solder to make permanent connections instead of the XT60 connectors. If you use the connectors, put a cable tie around them so they cannot vibrate apart.
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I’ve a got a Hakko clone and really good solder too, also heatshrink so should be ok. This is the bms that didn’t link before - https://www.electricskateboarding.co.uk/bms/12s-ble-smart-bms
The motor amp isn’t needed since that comes with their own wirings and are given the amps by the esc. The esc should have its own connectors that are pre soldered for the battery, but you can see what AWG wire it is. Usually they’re 12 awg, unless it’s something stronger, then you would see 8-10 awg. 12s4p is the battery pack. What type of battery cells are they? If its samsung 30Q, then a 12 awg is good. But Usually people go with 10 if its a 5p. 12 awg at 4p is fine if they’re 30Q since they discharge at 60amps (15amps × 4 parallel cells) and 12 awg can handle 75 amps continuously.
Bms are usually 16-20 awg for the small wires.
Edited: The awg you want to use for that BMS is 12 awg
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Yeah it’s 30q cells. I guess I’ll wait until I receive the esc to see what awg the wires are. My original question was actually which lugs to use with whatever awg cable I’m using, there seem to be a few diffferent sizes of lugs
is this good for bearings?
Never heard of Sunrise
Edit: might just get the bones one. 2.5 times as expensive but at least has 900 ratings with 4.8 stars.
Sunrise has 3 ratings with an average of 3.
On the other hand, I’ve been using the same bearings since 2018 and haven’t lubed them once, even after snow, rain etc. Why should i now.
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Oh cool, can you recommend a good paste and good thermal pads? 
So I can order this stuff 
That esc is 12 awg. If you’re using lugs, they should be 12-14 awg and the lugs in the link since it can transfer energy better.
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Not really to be honest 
I used some Arctic mx-4 or mx-2 for the regular mosfets (i had just enough for that laying around). But since most of the heat transfer goes into the pcb it won’t make a world difference what you use. Thermal pad could work too i guess.
The thermal pad i use on the directfets was the stock one from the neoboxes but due to the horrible clearance i put another layer of the aliexpress pad beetween.
So its:
directfet - neo pad - ali pad - neobox heatsink
Getting a fitting heatsinks obviously does more but thermals are still very good with this method.
thermal transfer according to the listing is a measly 3.2w/m-k
My issue is that when I set it to “current” it still uses smart reverse.
Thx for the lengthy response but it’s not very fitting to my question 
I know everything there is to about my bms.
My battery jumped up, not after a discharge cycle, but over an hour after a full charge (that even overcharged)
As for the esc, it’s a bike. I’m using a voltage reader and my multimeter
Do you have a screenshot?
“Current” mode just has full speed forward and full speed reverse. “Smart” reverse is where you mostly don’t have reverse at all, but when you brake to a stop, you can continue to hold brake and it will reverse a tiny bit after a delay. This will hold your position on a hill or at a red electric signal. “Hyst Reverse” is when, while stopped, you can tap brake, then hold brake to switch to reverse. Once you start going forward again, reverse turns back off.
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Awesome, thank you so much for the help. You say ‘if youre using lugs’. do i have an option? IM using the NESE system by agnesium if that sheds any light on the issue
I think he’s on uart…
In uart deactivating smart reverse gives no reverse. It needs to be button activated in the remote through “z” channel to go full speed backwards.
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Anyone had any luck getting a 12s4p P42A 21700 pack in a single stack hummie deck?
I know it’s made for 12s4p/10s5p 18650… but how much space is it left at the end?
Have you tried the other baudrate with the flipsky bt module? I’m in the same. Boat lol
@YeetMeat should work with 112500. Atleast it does on mine. I’m using a flipsky dual 6.6 with ackmaniac and a random hm10 module (the one that goes with my LLT bms)
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Flip tx/rx wires? Flipshit does some fuckery there tx goes to tx on their modules