Its not a big thing at all. You literally have to move the board forwards slightly. I mean slightly and the motors know where they are. I just bend the knees towards the front of the board and stand up. Doesn’t work on hills obviously but then one leg off and a push works fine. Its what you get used to. Sensors are really only necessary on boards with bindings imho.
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So I wouldn’t be able to go into the remote setting and change things (like wheel size, pulley size, etc), I can only do it within the app?
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What the remote does is the remote’s job. If you want to change things like smart reverse max erpm, ramp up/down times (i recommend 0.8s for both), throttle curves, that’s on the app config, vesc remote, on the side the remote receiver is connected
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Example:
Screen_Recording_20200823-005338
Going directly to the app config if your remote is connected to the other uart port will do nothing
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Is there a definitive thread somewhere on the internet about how/why one could fry/blow/break/burn your can-bus chips on vesc and what the hw fixes were. My search fu is failing me.
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Alright, noob question time:
Is there a way to make my belt drive a little bit quieter?
I have activated v0/v7 sampling for foc which seems to have improved the sound and feel of the board in low speeds, but it still screams like a banshee if i go in car territory speeds
Example:
Screen_Recording_20200822-215452_1_1
Previously on urethane and 4.x vesc it was quieter (and motors hotter). Now on pneumatics i make an angle grinder jealous…
Also: anyone messed around with the switching frequency successfully?
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My donut brain says powering on vescs at different times burns all the other can chips on the line except for the one that is doing the burning (first to power on). I think that’s a esk8 builders forum era type of issue. Sorry i can’t help more
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Are people often in the situation of powering multiple VESCs on separately?
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I did a stupid a few days ago: plugged in everything from battery to antispark switch to splitter and first vesc welcomed me with a big spark from the xt90. Turns out button connector for the antispark was not making contact to let me know it was on, and the antispark failed (closed fortunately) instantly after that spark. Would it have been with old canbus problem i was looking at a trampa vesc fucked as well
Maybe there’s out there with 2 antisparks in high amp 4wd builds. Dunno
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I’ve noticed this clicking sound when riding, and I can’t seem to figure out what it is. I thought it was the motor pulley so I went back and loctited the grub screws but I can still hear it. Any ideas?
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Does the sound persist when spinning the motors with no belts?
Can you hand spin all the bearings in the wheels setup (including pulley bearing if there) smoothly?
Is the wheel pulley sitting tight on the wheeel hub?
Also, since in looks like a flipshit motor: can you move the can across the shaft and/or sideways? Can you feel it move/hear it click?
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It only happens when I accelerate. I will try without the belt. All the bearings seem to run smooth, and it doesn’t affect the ride, but I know that noise isn’t normal
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It is a TB motor
Just tested without a belt and it sounds perfect so maybe it has to do with the wheel
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So. if you got this DRV fault. on a focbox 1.7 on a 10s board that’s been fine for quite some time, but then recently blew a fet on it’s other focbox, and now the remaining one throws this DRV fault what do you do? throw out the VESC in fear 
?
Looks like something is shorting. Phases maybe? Motor? Something fucky in the fets? Who knows
Tighten the wheel+pulley setup in there without a belt and hand spin now.
Tip: if you don’t use spacers between all bearings bad things happen (that includes pulley bearing if it’s there)
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Now it sounds like there is something loose in the motor but I can’t hear it without the belt, so I’m not sure. I will tighten the wheel pulley
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Sometimes the wheel pulley “lip” rubs in just the wrong way to the wheel core around the wheel bearing. The smallest bit of grease on the places the pulley touches the wheel is a temporary fix.
Also could be play in the motor shaft. Tighter belts will make the problem a lot worse in time!
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Ugh I don’t even know. This is still all new to me. The motor doesn’t make noises when by itself and neither does the wheel, but when I put a belt on the noise comes back
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