Yup.
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Thanks to you and @ZachTetra and @BillGordon as well for the quick replies.
Down the line, I have planned to do a well thought-out DIY build (for which I don’t want to rush a single thing and do the best job I can, no matter the time or cost).
But after reading the first few threads here I am 100% sure I will not start off with a high powered DIY esk8. I just… don’t want to die to be honest. That’s why I need to deside on one of two plans:
- Get an analog board -> Get a budget esk8 -> DIY
- Get a budget esk8 -> DIY
I am currently leaning towards the second plan just because I don’t want to spend 200-300 bucks to figure out I want an esk8 about a month after getting the analog.
Get a board from LetGo/Mercari/FB Market or something to get some practice while the first eskate is on the way
You can get a cheap prebuilt but shipping sucks usually (backfire, Meepo, Ownboard, Exway), you can get a REALLY cheap board off Amazon, you can try and get a used board here, or you can source cheap parts. I’d be careful with buying used as they can be dangerous if they were mistreated
Edit: ALSO an analog gives you something to do when your eskate inevitably goes on the bench for maintenance, repairs, and upgrades…helps curb the pain and sadness once you get addicted
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Again thanks to all of you for the informative input!
Against my previous posts idea, I have decided to get a analog board before the budget esk8.
I think it is essential to learn the basics without technology supporting me. (foot-breaking, carving without AT wheels, the correct way to fall etc)
Together with my friend we have planned to do a build thread on our DIY journey (starting most likely around January/February of 2021) with a timeframe of about 6-10 months.
Thanks again and see you soon!
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Yeah, I was gonna suggest getting a regular board (recommended longboard decks) to start off. Once you get the hang of it, you can then just DIY your brought board with parts and turn that into an esk8.
That’s what I did with mine. But I rode skateboards at a young age, so I got used to it.
Maytech V2 remote you use ppm + tx and Rx on uart (other pins are only required if not using UART)
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- Does anyone use Surf Rodz TKP Grindsz trucks for esk8? Apparently the hanger end is rounded, but if the rest of the hanger is hex, wouldn’t that still work with all the mounts?
- Can I use angled risers with TKP trucks just like I would for RKP? To decrease the angle in the rear for stability. (Just a sanity check)
- Am I correct in thinking that switching from RKP -> TKP I will have less wheel-bite in the vertical direction, but more wheel-bite in the horizontal direction? Or do the hangers sit further apart enough that it’s basically the same in the horizontal direction?
- If I’m replacing a caliber hanger and want a similar width, I should go with 177mm and 8mm axles, yeah? (push board)
Second point: why would you not be able to? It’s the same result, more lean for less turn
Can anyone with a vx2 remote tell me how the cruise control is implemented in it?
Precisely, does it keep a constant speed, across uphills, straights and downhills?
Or it only locks the throttle position and you need to tinker with it every time the ground changes?
How much more throttle range does it have compared to vx1? (Visual demonstration if possible?)
the only 1 time i used CC on my vx2 was on flat ground, with tiny bumps here and there, it kept 19km/h for whole duration (6km tested), so i don’t know what would happen for up and down hill. Maybe others with more experience can provide more info.
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idk about the VX2 but the VX1 does this. locks the throttle position.
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Yeah, i have the vx1 and it sucks ass in this regard. I like matching my speed with cars doing the limit for the road and keeping it constant, but in my city the only constant flat roads are highways, or not even those.
Flipsky left a sour taste after the motors i’m still disputing with paypal, but remotes seem reliable at least.
Also tempted for a trampa remote since i know it does what i want, but AAA batteries and signal drops are a biiig nope
@frame if you got a bluetooth module you can easily check by looking at the motor current value. If it locks in place it’s like on vx1, if it drops after a certain speed (and/or raises on hills) it’s the good type
reliable ish.
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Well, yeah, classic flipsky qc signature.
The difference is you can solder back that wire. With shit signal your only option is to take the whole receiver out of the enclosure and hope for the best, or just run ridiculously long wires and tape it to the remote :))
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my only CC experience was done pre-metr time, I will see if I have time tomorrow night to test the CC again if it doesn’t rain. Quite busy tomorrow, don’t count on me 
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So I’ve read that I should inspect my vesc before plugging it in, and I just wanted to check with you guys, because I don’t trust my judgement lol
I think the soldering looks fine, but do you guys think otherwise?
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Nothing looks bad at a first glance. Small solders are neat and bigger ones (phase wires) are juuust enough.
What you need to look for is solder balls left over on the pcb after they were washed. Most are about half a mm and are stuck on the pcb (but might fall due to vibrations and short some pins)
Example:
You can see 3 over there. I can see 0 in yours but check yourself. Everything is visible through the heatshrink
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No, I don’t see anything. It looks pretty clean to me. Thanks
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Also, just thought I would ask, what is the cable with the brown, red, and yellow wires? I know what everything else is, but I’m not sure what that is