Typically a easy to use cable for pwm remotes. One is gnd, one is 5/3.3v and one is the pwm signal. Don’t know which is which there.
If you use a uart remote just ignore it
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Yeah, I’ll just be using the vx1 vua uart. Okay, thanks
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via*
Question about battery percentage indicator:
So I added an indicator to let me know how much % I have left, but when I go to the Vesc tool app, what I got are two different %s. My indicator says 44% but my app says 36%. Which one is more accurate?
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Can’t edit apparently, but I answered my own question. The remote power switch is so faulty, that holding it seems to fix the issue. So yes, I definitely need to replace the remote.
Edited just to say finally, I can edit.
So Im getting a weird issue after adding in the TX and RX lines of a uart port (rx uart vesc to tx receiver and vice versa) to a remote reciever.
When doing this, which ever vesc has the receiver plugged, it causes the motor to spin very rough and occasionally make the motor draw power… as soon as I unplug the tx and rx lines the motor returns to normal
Anyone ever ran into this before?
Is there any possibility of major harm to the vesc or receiver if I try to swap the wires?
Why can’t I find information on this site about using smartphones as a esc remote? Is bluetooth unreliable?
I have an android app communicating via bt with an arduino attached to my esc. The volume keys change speed and touch buttons manage spin direction and braking. I placed them in a way to avoid fat-fingering/butt-dialing them. Arduino handles disconnection by decelerating according to current ppm (no hard brakes). This is the only remote I’ve ever used, and it’s served me well for the 10+ mi test runs that I’ve been doing earlier this week.
I’m worried about the lack of tips and guides of using phones as esk8 controllers. What’s the reason for this?
Welcome to this forum firstly.
And second: Using your phone as a remote itself is pretty cool, but I think it’s because it can cause a problem holding it while riding. It’s like trying to watch the road while watching a video at the same time. Also, some phones may lose battery % since the screen is on, even die on them.
You can see why using your phone might be unreliable at high speeds. It could also be Bluetooth issues as well. Some connections are not really reliable, from my experience that is.
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My question is going to sound very noob but can someone explain to me why you cannot use a single vesc for two motors
The same reason you can’t ride 2 bikes at a time. Your body interfaces nicely and can control only 1 bike
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Your receiver sends a value other than neutral to the vesc, and vesc is acting on the input received. Nothing wrong with the wires, probably faulty remote.
Try across more vescs to know for sure though
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Don’t bother with percentages. It only measures and judges by voltage and does a worse job than you approximating battery left. Read voltage directly and keep in mind that ~3v/cell the battery is almost empty. That added with what you know you used already, keeps a good estimate in your head
I do that, however, having 2 different %s information doesn’t really give me a good accuracy. I just limit myself whenever I see my % at 20%. It helps me a lot.
You can try and put two motors into one esc, however, the level of amps (current) passing through will either burn out your wires, destroy your esc, or not give you the power you wanted. Its better to have more than one if using dual motors.
This was the results from others testing this out lol
If you set battery cutoffs correctly you will feel your board limiting your acceleration more and more when it’s almost empty. That’s all you need to estimate that you have “x” km range left (you do need to run it flat at least once to figure that out).
I’d set cutoff start at around 3.3v/cell (in 10s it means 33v for example) and cutoff end juuust under 3v. Maybe 2.9v/cell to account for the sag you get when actually discharging
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The remote is only acting funny once the tx and rx wires are plugged in. Just using ppm alone it works correctly but won’t show the speed or other data on the screen. Why might this be?
That I did, but its kinda hard to drain out a 10p battery. I feel the sag say around 30% on the indicator, and I just estimate it from there.
Thanks for the help though. I’ll see what’s more accurate by getting it to 0
Already explained.
Ppm requires manual calibration so if the default is not straight in the middle, a calibration would bring that there.
Uart you take it as it is. You can only increase the dead zone on the throttle in vesc (under vesc remote)
Again, don’t read percentages, read the actual voltage. I can ride my board for another 7-8km after vesc starts showing 0%
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While troubleshooting the issue we moved all the wires to just the uart port for 5v, grn, tx, and rx so the remote was only communicating on uart. Same problem…
To clarify this is while trying to connect a TB6 esc to the new esk8 remote from Maytech. At this point, both companies have blamed each others products and I just want to see the data on my remote. Someone has some explaining to do! 