Yeaaah… put it back with some tape and pretend you’ve never seen it. It’s fiiiiine
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To answer you on that battery question, it depends on your BMS, how much did you set your amp to, what is your amp discharge rate, and what is the AWG used to send out the voltage from the bms to the esc.
Unfortunately, you have to open your batteries pack and check what battery is either under charged by calculating voltage from your multimeter and make sure its properly connected. This is one nightmare that some battery makers don’t like using a bms for.
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Short answer, no.
Slightly longer answer: No, just overheating and discharge isn’t enough to overvoltage a single group. What’s more likely is that group either has A: lower capacity than the rest, or B: somehow got charged higher than the rest, and then during charging got pushed even higher.
BMSs don’t “feed voltage out” of the balance leads. They measure (take in) the voltage of the cells, and either A: do nothing, or B: drain power from a specific group if that group is higher than all the rest. 99.999% of all esk8 BMSs don’t have the ability to put out any kind of voltage or power through their balance leads, only measure and drain.
A Very Bad Event. I would recommend that you immediately take that battery out of service, and put it somewhere fireproof for a couple days. Once it seems less likely to burn your house down, I would recommend either disassembly and checking each individual cell before rebuilding, or straight-up disposal. We Do Not Fuck Around with lithium ion batteries. They are too energy dense and likely to cause grievous physical or financial harm when mistreated.
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Can someone help?
I’m struggling with how to connect receiver for my Maytech V2 remote to Unity. Instructions from Maytech aren’t that great.
Do I just need to connect the PPM (PPM/5V/GND) to control throttle/brake and the UART (TX/RX) for speed/temp data to displayed on the remote?
Also, the remote came with two 3 pin cables and one 7 pin cable. For the TX/RX connection can I just use 3 pin cable but cut one of the wires?
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It can be a problem and it can be no problem. Do you have a photo of where you want to put the hole?
Also, epoxy is your friend. If you put the charge port and switch into the deck with good epoxy then it’ll be a lot stronger than if you use hot glue or bolts or silicone.
Im back again with another noob question! Just to recap, Im using the Landyachtz Evo Falcon 36 deck, after evaluating my options for motors and mounting trucks, I am looking at the:
- FatBoy Mini Eco AT Gear Drive V2 on MBS trucks
- Etoxx adjustable MBS baseplates
Based on the shape of my board do you folks think this will work? Or would I risk the ends of the board snapping due to the angle of the trucks?
Tagging @Venom121212 as you were extremely helpful last time and I seek your sage wisdom once again 
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Well, bms in passthrough. Already measured everything and completely dissasemble. Cells overheated because i switched to pneumatics and i guess the same continuous drain used for double the time was too much…
Battery is dissassembled. I’m afraid to tear open that p-group because it also slightly changed colour of the wrapping.
Is reverse polarity possible, up to that stupid high voltage?
Pack was almost empty when it cutoff, but i didn’t think to look which way the i measured it at the time
twas perfect m8… thanks again!!!
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Theoretically, yes. Although the cells recovering to a higher voltage than the rest pretty much rules that out.
Oof, yeah, those cells should be disposed of at the earliest convenience.
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As long as you can get the base plates to 20 degrees and -50 degrees you should be good, the motors should have clearance since the axle is pushed back but you may need to do some light file work
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Awesome, and do you think it would put stress on the wrong spots on the board since the trucks are going to be angled out like that? Or would I be ok?
Thanks again!
Ehh, as long as the mounting screws are properly tightened and you toss a 1/8" shock pad I think you’ll be totally fine. The stress isn’t great but DKP is the same and people have eLofty DKP on them
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Awesome, thanks!
No promises, just speculations here 
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Ouch.
Hi!
Very general noob question here.
I have no prior experience in skateboards/longboards and tried an esk8 of a friend of mine last week.
I was immediately hooked on the whole topic and started doing intensive research.
My simple question: Would you recommend for a total newbie like me to first get experience with a non-powered longboard? Or is there no harm in getting a esk8 and learning how to drive it in “slow-mode” for a couple of months? Are there any advantages to starting off with a normal board?
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Riding an analog gives you balance and a sense for how to use the board without brakes which is a good thing, you can pick up a nice analog board to practice with while you make your eskate
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Both arguments can be made, but I lean more towards getting an esk8 and riding while you plan your desired build.
And welcome!
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I also think both answers can be correct, but I would probably lean toward buying a prebuilt esk8 (or a used DIY esk8) to ride while you make a better one. Feeling rushed (because you want to ride) will produce a lower quality DIY build and cause corners to be cut IMHO
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