If this is an HTD5M synchronous timing belt, then definitely go for the 18:62.
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Going to be routing my wires ontop of the deck since I’m doing a split enclosure. Is adding epoxy to the wires really necessary, or will I be just fine without adding anything for reinforcement
Guys, I’m really dumb with wire standards. What jauges/type of wire should I use to extend my BMS balance wires safely?
only the focbox 1.6 and jedbox/jeffbox has this issue
also works, but one side of esc only requires the “PPM” signal wire, 5V and GND is not needed
@b264 has a thread about it How to bind the Mini Remote [Serious]
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yeah using 5m, why would you definitely choose one over the other?
Shipping a complete with battery internationally? Is express allowed, or slowboat only?
@malJohann From my google Fu research I’ve gathered this:
Equipment with lithium batteries installed is permitted by air as long as you fill the dangerous goods contract, pack it very securely (ex.: Rigid exterior box to prevent crushing) and put a UN3481 label.
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DHL: air travel is allowed, but it has to be declared as DG. upon pick up / drop off at service centre they may also need to check how you’ve packed it if said battery isn’t encased within a device. some info is also needed if item “looks” big, for example, battery type / diamension / Wh…etc
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Touched phase wires or dead shorted motor widlndings inside?
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13T on HTD5M doesn’t engage very well, can slip easier, and wears out belts faster. You want more tooth engagement, not less.
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Noob question here: I’ve got a Landyatchz evo falcon 36, and want to make it as AT capable as possible. Would channel trucks work on the board? Or are there any risers out there that can make it work? My main concern is the tail end of the board points downward.
It’s also generally recommended not to go below 15 teeth on HTD5M. You can, but the further under that you go, the worse. Less engagement, higher possibility to skip, fast belt wear, possibly more noise. 12T is about the absolute limit for an HTD5M tooth profile.
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There are adjustable baseplates for channel trucks that you could buy to make work with that deck. You can also just use a wider skate truck with some 6" pneumatic wheels and hubs.
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Do you know what I would need to search up to find those baseplates? If I use a wider truck and air tires, would it absorb the same amount of vibration as channel trucks with air tires?
Thanks for the help 
Etoxx adjustable baseplates.
Absorption wise, I don’t feel a ton of difference in the truck styles on the same wheels.
It’s more of a riding style change. Channel trucks ride more like a snowboard and you end up using your whole body while riding.
If you’ve never tried channel trucks, I’d give them a go. I love the way they ride compared to rkps.
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Awesome thanks for the help, Ill give them a try if I can get it to work My main concern was if Id be trading in ride comfort, the roads in my area aren’t the best. Thanks for the help!
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But torque…
except perhaps right at the motor I don’t think the phase wires could have touched anywhere.
but I’m going to go ahead and open the motor up next to see if I can see a cause.
IMG_9764
How weird is this? I’ve got a 12 S8P battery, running 6374 motors, on focbox unity.
Used the wizards in VESC Tool to set up motor and remote.
Rode OK at first but wouldn’t go over 15 miles an hour. Then after a mile and a half it wouldn’t ride at all unless I walked next to it. Even then it would be pretty slow
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What’s the best epoxy for reinforcing the wires routed through my deck to the original strength it was and possibly for reinforcing threaded inserts? I’m looking for something that is easy and not expensive