dope, I think have one of these. Thanks for the help dudes 
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Probably yeah, sounds like it would work
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was it?
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If they’re steel, then no, the fiberglass will destroy them in ten seconds flat. But if you get a carbide burr, then it’s awesome in fiberglass.
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I recommend a carbide burr. Smaller diameter than the abrasive wheels, and can remove material faster. They come in all shapes and sizes, so you can tailor the tool to your needs.
I would not recommend the one jkoljo mentioned, it’s only steel and will get dull suuuuuper fast.
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It worked out ok! I did pretty much what @jkoljo advised and improvised a little with the Dremel bit
Lights camera splamo
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Is there any disadvantage of having long phase wires? My build would have around 60-70 cm long phase wires. It will be a 12S build with Cheap FOCer v2 VESCs. And some shitty HUB motors as a place holder, gonna upgrade to dual 6374 or 6380 later on.
I would mount the heatsinked ESC enclosure in the middle on the top, route the cables in the battery enclosure on the bottom, to the back of the board where the motors are. I can’t fit my ESCs into the battery enclosure most likely, and even if I could I would be worried about not heatsinking them there.
Would I be fine with these long phase wires?
Obviously the shorter the better for all the wires, but I think the general consensus is that it’s better to have long phase wires than long battery wires, because voltage spikes.
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But how long is too long? Surely a few cm wouldn’t make a difference
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Long phase wires as far as the community testing goes, is no problem. The longer the wire, the thicker you want the AWG.
Look at @malJohann Morpheus build where he has the ESC in a backpack, the phase leads are at least 70cm
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Alright, thanks. I will use 12 AWG since thats what I have available for now, I think it should be enough for a street build.
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12awg is more than enough for phase wires haha
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Total phase wire length end to end is actually 1.2m. I used 12AWG for lower resistance, but thinner would have been fine. The motors produce much more inductance than 1.2m of phase wires ever could.
/edit @Dinnye 
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Where in the vesc tool can i find that?
Can I just plug and unplug my batteries (lipos if it matters) to power on/off or do I really need anti spark or loop key?
You’ll wear our the connector quickly and there will be a large spark every time. There’s also a slight possibility of esc damage
There’s no reason to not use a loop key, it’s like 4 bucks.
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I’m looking at two gearing ratio options: 18:62 vs 13:44, both ~3.4 ratio. Running MB 155’s, TB 6380 190kv x2, I weigh 175lbs, moderate hills but mostly flat aiming for top speed of 30+mph. I’ve read less teeth in contact means less friction and a tad more effecient (Im getting 28 wh/km now) so I would initially lean toward the 13:44, but what else is there to consider? What would you choose?
So I’m in the middle of figuring out how I’m going to be setting up my ESCs (planning on getting two the Torqueboards’ new ESCs; oddly enough the images on the site haven’t been updated yet) and after doing some digging, the topic of how two ESCs should be paired seems to be a pretty contentious topic. From what I’ve seen, there are three ways of connecting them:
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CANBUS (This seemed to be the least used due to experiences with ESCs being fried, but also some manufacture recommends it)
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PPM (or PWM or Y split? A little unclear if these are different)
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Using two receivers (one for each ESC) and pairing them to one remote, with no connection between the ESCs besides the parallel connector to the battery. (also if this is the ideal solution, which remotes actually can connect to two receivers at once? I also found a thread for this but it just turned out to be a long argument lol)
Sorry for the extra long posts I’ve been making; I really want to reduce the chances of ballsing up my build and dropping way more cash than I need to. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!
Option 1 only canbus failures are no longer a thing unless you have a OG focbox or neobox. All other options are meh with modern firmware.
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