No, you will need to do a motor detection in BLDC
BLDC detection results look like this
TB6380 3 third detect
Cycle Integrator Limit: 146.75
BEMF Coupling: 707.02
FOC detections look like this
TB6380 3 second detect
I: 70.11A
R: 12.20mΩ
L: 8.95μH
λ: 4.997mWb
Do parameters save on each type?
I mean, i do bldc detection, save, ride, go back and switch to foc. Do i do detection one more time? (Using android app)
Yes, No,
once you detect and save the FOC detection you can switch to FOC anytime without detecting again
once you detect and save the BLDC detection you can switch to BLDC anytime without detecting again
Well anyway, that’s using a PC with the Linux build. I don’t know anything about doing it on Android, but it’s probably similar. Just look at the numbers.
Okay, thank you. I will try and report back
Edit: decreasing duty cycle changes the buzz into a slow rotation, but the bemf value is all over the place between duty at 0.03, 0.02 and 0.01
Usually for a BLDC detection with a normal 6355 to 6380 size motor, I need to increase I to 12A and D to 0.15 for a successful detection.
The desktop version has a 
you click with paragraphs of useful instructional material… which you need…
You can also try increasing ω if you can’t get a good result
Is it normal for the wheel to still spin from inertia between the first and second part of the detection? Anything over 2A sends it flying for at least 4 seconds
thanks b264, that’s a nice option from metroboardX… too bad 8 week lead time due to covid, mid august to wait is a bummer.
I have silicon covers on my direct drives I the glued a thermistor to the back of the motors there is a slight increase in temp. I also have vinyl on my shortboard motors to protect them. I run these 6354s hard no issues with temp.
I have a DD 75KV running 12S and 150mm wheels it’s super fast over 60km/hr but not as torquey as my other boards it will get up a 15 degree incline but struggles on steep hills. A belt drive I would just gear down. A DD the only thing you can do is reduce your wheel size. I am keen to try the new 5" pneumatics they will shave a few mm of my wheel size. On 107s I have plenty of torque and speed is still awesome.
It can take much longer than 8 weeks to complete a custom build.
Maybe look for a used DIY board or a china hub board to ride while you work on your custom DIY.
Anything look imeadeitly wrong ? Gonna sodder an sk8 sensore wire
practice on some other crap first.
gonna try to sodder a thicker a basic red wire
exactly hw im goin to do it
1 strip wires
infuse the wire strands togethor
twist
appy sodder
use shrink tube
also is flux optional
im also worried when im done its going to be to short to plub back in
For something simple like this I’d say that flux should be optional, just make sure that your wire gets hot enough to not get some cold joints
hey is thier a way to extend the cut motor wire its just just to much tenshion and i think im going to run in to issues later ? any idea what size or somthing like that ? it need like a quater inch of cable
What’s an inch? Oh, you mean a quarter of 25.4mm? So, like 6.35mm - ish.
Generally, under most cases, wire size is determined by how much current it needs to carry. In isolated cases where the amount of current is ridiculously small, you may want to select by physical strength (example: wires to RC receiver)
Who are you guys talking to?
hi so got somethig weird
when i turn my board on only the master side spins (useing a vx2) then i turn board and remote off and back on and both sides spin fine
not that big of a problem just wondering why that happens?
thanks
