Agreed, sounds like you’re cooking your motors or ESC and the ESC is throttling to compensate. Switching the ESC might not help in this case, and could actually cause it to throttle faster since you’re pushing more power (aka heat) into the motors.
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Yeah boi 
You forgot the retaining compounds like 638 and 648 (green)
The difference between them is the tolerance they can take up. One is slightly more viscous than the other and can take up a bigger gap. I can never remember which is which. I think 638 is the thicker one.
These are used between a shaft and a pulley. I call them ‘liquid weld’
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My 648 liquid weld crap is blue goo in a red tube
Interesting. My 638 is green
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From a bit of websurfing I’ve found that the color scales seem to be completely different between theeadlocker, retaining compound and bonding agent. Also the same 3 colors are used for all of them but in a different order.
If I had to choose only one type to have in stock, it would be Loctite 290.
That one is not for holding pulleys or gears on shafts though. But I also think if you’re using adhesives for that purpose, then you should redesign it in the first place so that it uses a key, keyways, and a bolt or circlip.
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Your motor Kv is too high now, on direct drive, going from 107mm to 150mm wheels while significantly increasing the drag (polyurethane to pneumatic) means you also need to go from 60Kv to 40Kv or less. 35Kv would probably be even better.
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Yeah the motors were only warm to the touch but the esc heat disapation plate was hotter. Looks like I have to go down the Vesc and remote road. Any suggestions for my set up? It’s a street cruiser for 10 mile commute pushing a 200lb rider. Just want reliability and connectivity over speed and torque.
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tbh not sure if i can trust information coming from cunninghams law guy over here 
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Hey man, really weird stuff, battery seems back to normal. I charged it for a bit w/o bms and its been chillng around 47v. I checked all p groups: normal. I just rode it up a hill while watching voltage and its normal. Im thinking heat of the trunk, even though i thought it was minor, might’ve overly discharged the battery somehow, it was a 4 hour drive. doesnt make much sense to me but im no expert. Anywho, going to re wire bms to the batt. After that would you reccommend keeping it on charger for several days to a week?
Honestly it sounds like it just needed to be charged, but IDK
What are the chances you accidentally didn’t charge it first or left it turned on while in the automobile?
I would think that too, but once it was dying on me, I took it home and charged it. And then it did the same thing just from me revving the engine in the house. Idk there could be an easy explanation like you are saying that Im missing bc Im kinda spacey but seems inexplanable other than being in a hot trunk. im not overly worried about it, about to build two new nese packs with li ion and just treat them like a laptop, no more trunks
Maybe a loose (high resistance) series connection? Could be lots of things.
It’s like you didn’t even try to search 
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Welcome to the Internet
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Hello Mr Internet, can I get a 4 piece nugget?
I’m trying to watch my calorie intake.
And a Junior Western Bacon Chee
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Diet coke DIET! Gotta watch the calories ya know.
Don’t get it. So my caliber II trucks are lopsided one way, I took the bushings off and noticed the kingpin bolt is the same way. Are caliber II’s known for this issue?
actually found a good amount of corrosion in the wire of my batteries xt 90 charge port
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