Could you share a screenshot? I’m not sure which setting / value in particular you’re talking about
I would assume he means the detection result where it shows the motor amperage etc.
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Hi all,
Anyone knows where to find some proper motor mounts for the FB 230? Will caliber II’s mounts work? The profile is square-ish at 18mmX19.5mm, so not the same shape.
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This is a FOC Wizard run of a E scooter Motor. The ones that drive 50 km/h legaly and normaly have a gas engine. The Data sheet of this scooter said 500w and it also felt like it, that’s why I run the FOC to see the amps the wizard would say. Here it says ~40A. Is that the value at which I can use the motor? Or is it the peak value? Cause I would like to tune this 48V(13s) 500w motor to run at 1-2kw so it gets you somewhere.
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Ah. That value is just a recommendation. On some ESCs it’s pretty realistic for the motor, on some it’s way off. The motor might heat up at that current level, but it might still produce a lot of torque, so try it! 
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Hey guys, is this amount of wiggle in the motor key okay? In a few videos, the key tolerance is so tight its hard to insert/remove. (@ShutterShock your videos are SO helpful)
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Thank you mate! Enjoy making content to help people.
If you’re going to be using green loctite on there anyway, it’s probably not that big of a deal. those are Kevin’s custom ones, so you actually have it much easier, whereas with standard flipsky you might even have to file or cut down the key lol
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anybody know what could be wrong with my battery? gonna try to upload a short vid, but basically… i have a 14s2p lifepo4 A123 cells in a nese module. resting voltage is around 46.6. but something’s wrong bc when i pull trigger, even just a little bit, voltage almost instantly drops down to like 40, 39 and then my vescs cut off voltage kicks in and stops it. but if i wait a minute voltage will go back up to around 45. thought it might be a bad bms, so i cut the bms out of the wiring but doing the same thing, fully charged the board this a. m and voltage was normal like 47, 48. thinking it could be a bad cell or two, but on vacation and dont have a multimeter with me (things often go wrong with my board on vacation 
). only other thing i can think of is replacing the wires coming off of batt terminals, water could have gotten in and corroded bad, but i doubt that. everything looks normal though… @b264 prob has a decent guess 
, thanks. the other thing is i had it in my trunk during 4 hour drive, sun was hot on car but outside temp was only 74 (north Carolina) don’t think that amount of heat would fry a battery but all of a sudden batt is totally dead so idk
Did you charge the board to 51V? First thing is I’d give it a charge, that behaviour could be something as simple as a dead or unbalanced battery, or it could be something severe wrong. First thing I’d charge to 50.4V (or 51.1V) and give it time to balance. Then see if it drops immediately like that.
Of course follow all safety precautions and stop charging immediately if the battery gets hot.
How hot was it in the trunk? Was it in the trunk when you weren’t driving and the car was parked? During the drive I don’t feel like it would overheat.
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yeah i charged it fully. it quickly drops to 48,47 volts after charging. so all seemed normal. yeah just in warm car while driving, took it out when i arrived bc I realized i should have put it in back seat while i drove and had low a. c. coulda been heat in trunk. do those symptoms seem like it could be a few bad cells? seems more severe than that tho. idk, thanks for your input. was getting ready to build a li ion battery for longer range so not devestated
Fully to what voltage?
Agree, this is normal for 14S LiFePO4
Hard to say. I would measure all the P-groups next, but you said you don’t have a way to do that yet.
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i use a 12s li ion charger for it so max it could go was 50.4 even though could go to 51.1 for 14s lifepo4. but my bms has always been wierd and kinda stops when one cell gets above 3.65 instead of balancing before that happens. but then it goes back on once that cell naturally drops below 3.65. idk, almost got a new bms cus didn’t behave perfectly, but thanks to lifepo4 chemistry all cells would come back down to 3.33 ish after an hour so my setups been working like that for over 7 months now
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This is normal behavior. The BMS can’t possibly drain down a cell faster than the charger is charging the pack, because the balance circuitry is much smaller and more power-limited. Most BMS’ balance at <100mA, a tiny fraction of the average charger’s current. As a result it has to stop the charge, drain the cell down, then resume charging again.
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very good to know, probably seemed weird too because ive been using lifepo4 and theres almost no (correct me if I’m wrong) extra mah from voltage 3.35 to 3.65 so when charging the highest cell can very qucikly go from 3.35v to 3.65v and instantly trigger the charging to stop. then the cell quickly drops below 3.65 because lifepo4 drops quickly too and bms starts again, but highest cell quickly goes back up above 3.65 and on and on. I never recall seeing the pack voltage get above 48v or so on the bluetooth app even though the charger is 50.4v
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Yeah,
Yeah, that’s one of the quirks of LFP. It’s also what lets them “self balance” to a certain extent - Any cell that gets to 3.65 will just slowly slump back down to ~3.35, and the higher ones will slump more than the lower ones. Having a BMS is still a good idea, but it’s not nearly as critical on LFP as it is on LiPo or Li-Ion.
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Yes, they drop to 3.4V instantly and drop to 3.3V almost instantly once you apply a load.
Have you left the charger connected for long enough to balance the pack? Leave it connected for a long time; does it creep up to 50.4V? “long time” being like a week or something
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Loctite Threadlocker:
What color and number designation to use for what?
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Blue is medium strength, 242 is the OG, 243 is basically the same but doesn’t mind dirty/oily surfaces. 248 comes in a stick, which can be nice for less mess.
Red is high strength. 262, 263, and 268 are the OG, dirty-surface-insensitive, and stick versions, respectively.
Unless you are sure you need red, you probably should stick with blue. Generally red requires the application of heat and swearing to remove.
There are also some useful specialty ones like 290, which can be applied to fasteners after installation (it wicks into the threads and then cures),
641, which is a medium strength retaining compound (good for holding loose bearings into their seats and keeping them from fretting, for example),
and 648, which is the NUCLEAR “You are never going to come apart ever again” option, which works best for close fitting parts.
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Was running an old hobbywing 12s esc with no issues for 60kv direct drives with abec 107mm wheels. I’ve now installed 6" pneumatics and after 20mins of hard riding the esc drops me down to speed mode 1 and I have to switch off. I don’t think there’s enough power in the 24 amp esc to push a 200lb rider around.
The new 12s hobbywing esc that are in all the popular belt drive production AT boards seem ideal for my needs.
Question will they work with my direct drives? Is the KV difference between DD and belts an Issue?
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there’s your problem. DD motors have no gear ratio so you’re taking a lot more power to drive those bigger wheels with added resistance from the rubber. 12S will give you more power, but direct drive motors are what’s wasting the power.
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