Just in case you’re not aware, this is another example of a rude response when people attempt to offer help.
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I’m sorry, how is that rude? some people do live in that situation, I’m not one of them, and people are assuming I have basically all the parts for a whole other board just sitting around (I do but they’re all broken or don’t work for one reason or another)
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No one assumed you had all the parts to build another board.
Your quip of “we don’t all live in China…” was clearly a sarcastic remark tinged with negativity, since no one said that you should just walk down the street and get more parts.
It’s rude because of what I said above.
Now, this has been mentioned before, but if you have one board, it works, and you can’t afford it to be down or to have replacement parts, then don’t go trying to fix things that aren’t broken.
This is a DIY space, with DIY people who donate time to help others.
There is an expectation that someone has the ability to replace parts that are broken. It’s the same kind of expectation that someone has the required tools to do DIY.
If you don’t have extra parts or another board to use, then don’t futz around with what you do have unless you’re entirely willing to risk destroying the entire thing.
If you don’t have the experience and expertise to fix your own work, then don’t dispense attitude as a response to free advice.
What next?
“We don’t all have 3 soldering irons sitting in the garage” because you ruined the tip on yours?
“We don’t all live next to a forest of Canadian Maple” after your deck breaks and someone says it needs to replaced?
“We don’t all have a spot welder to make a new battery every month” after you hook up a buck converter pre-BMS and your pack voltage is 0.07v after sitting for a month?
I hope this crystalizes it for you.
As always, best of luck.
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that’s a pretty gatekeeping attitude, so just don’t get into DIY if you can’t afford multiples of everything?
I’m fine with buying new parts, but I don’t just throw money at problems I don’t have like buying extra $300 components “just in case”
If that’s what you took from my reply then I think we’re done here.
Cheers.
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idk how else I was supposed to take it.
thanks for the advice. sale thread coming soon for all my DIY stuff as apparently I’m too broke for this.
I’m broke too,let’s be broke together
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man I just wanna learn how to fix my shit. that’s like 80% of the reason I’m here
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fix your
tech shit
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precisely
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Righto I had a poke around the citadel and couldn’t find an answer on this:
Are there very rough guidelines for what motor currents are either good starting points or good limits for certain motors? Specifically I’ve tried trawling the builds threads for anything tagged 6354 posted in the last year or two because I’m interested in settings for my FS BH 140Kv 6354s, so if you can answer that particular question that would also be appreciated, but I think in general a list of starting points would be handy
I’m gonna start compiling a couple while I have the tabs open
Edit: oh there was that kerfuffle with the bigger motor more torque thread, will dive in there
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wait seriously? wow no wonder I was cooking my 6354s. I was running them at 75 motor amps…
and I was running my 6374s at 100…
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I need to do more homework tbh, though logs of a ride would clear it up easily enough. I’m currently running my board at 60 motor Amps and just 12.5 battery Amps each because the poor thing is 10S2P 30Q, doesn’t perform super well as you’d expect
Part of the risk of going DIY versus buying a prebuilt anything is that there is no overarching warranty, no whole-board tech support. If you fuck something up, it’s on you. This is a risk you accept when you buy your first component, and it doesn’t stop being a risk for the entire build process, and throughout the entire life of the thing you built. That’s not “gatekeeping”, that’s reality. If you can’t deal with that, then maybe DIY isn’t right for you.
Now, you can either give yourself an attitude adjustment and keep on trucking in this admittedly unforgiving but ultimately rewarding endeavor, or go back to the world of prebuilts. You will likely succeed in getting your shit fixed in the end if you keep at it, but you got yourself into this mess, so you’re going to have to get yourself out, and it’s going to take a while.
There is a whole pinned thread at the top of the forum dedicated to “Is DIY right for me?” which lays out, in detail, that DIY is almost never cheaper overall than just buying the thing. I don’t know what to tell ya at this point that you haven’t already heard somewhere else, and apparently ignored.
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I’m not wanting it to be cheaper, I know the pain of replacing parts as I’ve replaced everything but the battery in this board. I know it’s on me to fix things and I’m eager and dedicated to learning how to fix problems and fixing them.
what I’m not is able to just buy 2-3 of a part “just in case it breaks or is faulty” and I’m not able to just order a VESC or motors on a whim, sometimes I need to fix it to be good enough until I can buy new expensive replacements.
I’ve put over 6k into DIY in the passed year, and so far all I’ve got is 1.5 boards and a prebuilt (the 0.5 is because the remote doesn’t want to play nice with batteries)
I’m not giving up.
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Does anybody know how many watts the Lacroix HyBeams pull?
I want to attach some rear lights to the dc/dc and I don’t want to overload it.
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Wheel spin settings:
Using a Focbox Unity. Belt driven board. When board is turned off, wheels spin freely (minus belt friction) When board is turned on, and remote is in neutral position, the wheels barely turn, as if it’s braking.
When pulling remote trigger, motors don’t engage until I’d say 70% trigger pull. And again, it’s braking when remote is in neutral position. I’ve recalibrated both the remote and motors in the Unity app. Trying to get an idea of what could be wrong with my settings. Text or call 3852542003
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calibrate your PPM again. make sure it shows center while at center with no more than 1% variation.
also set your max and min to have -104% brake and 104% throttle at maximum trigger pull
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Usual follow up questions: what remote are you using, and could you go into more detail or show screenshots of the recalibration? This is to see if the remote settings are an issue
And what settings have you set in VESC tool? Again screenshots are helpful, this is to check if the current limits are very low or the settings don’t match the motors, because maybe the remote is working fine but the ESC is set to only put out a tiny amount of power and that’s why it’s not spinning
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