@electricboards
to elaborate on @mr.shiteside follow up questions:
is it connected via PPM or UART?
if it’s PPM, follow my response above
if it’s UART we need to know which remote as they don’t all function the same, though most have a remote calibration right on the remote.
What do you guys put under battery box and vesc box in top mount haero bro builds? i mean, do you use a squishy material? or just directly bolt it?
Im looking in amazon for “Rubber mat” and simmilars but i dont get a desired result
I’ve seen skate bushings used.
I’ve read about some people just bolting everything down, for as little movement as possible
That might be a good option if i cut one in half, as i feel that a bushing its pretty tall. I will consider getting some very soft ones.
Id like it to have some cushoning but if i cant find a suitable material i will just bolt it down and roll with it
Not a Haero but Trampa deck. I am using 3-4 washer per screw (3 screws used on the box). To net let the washer potentially scratch up the deck i’ve put some griptape squares over the hole of each screw where the washer then rests on.
so it’s:
screw head
washer
butyl tape
enclosure bottom
butyl tape
washer
washer
washer
deck
washer
nut
(since i don’t use inserts)
to add why i’m using multiple washer:
i haven’t found anything solid enough with the exact height i need, except these washer.
My box also still has it’s own 4 feet so the washer matched it perfectly.
This is very helpfull, thanks man. I think i will substitute the washers with a 3d printed part, and make use of that butyl tape you mentioned. im kind of worried about cracking the bottom of the enclosure when flexing the board but if i rise it just a little it will be fine.
I see, it looks fantastic. Thanks for the pics!
To prevent the feet from potentially rattling on the deck on heavy vibrations i filled the hollow spots inside the feet with some closed cell foam. (Not pictured)
Red dots indicate each screw.
This also works well. I did that first but calculated the height wrong, then the washer came to mind and worked right away.
Man you thought of everything! Ill also use the 3 bolts route as my deck alreaddy have m6 inserts (Thx @ApexBoards 
)
Oh okay. i really like 3d printed parts for the deck as they dont scratch it. i will come up with a desing when i buy the battery box.
I’d say that the 3d printed parts could also scratch the deck.
I would recommend also putting a piece of griptape or single sided tape down that’s just a hair bigger than the “washer”. I used griptape because i didn’t have anything else that didn’t leave nasty residue over time.
Griptape its a great solution, i will totally use that.
Any recommendatios for 5045 motors that have a low KV (and that dont break the bank?) … or indeed any motor in-between 5045 and 6354 size (6354 is too powerful for what i want), but with a low KV (140-170kv)
This might be an awfully stupid question, but as someone who didn’t ride yet I am wondering:
Which side of the ESC gets warm? The one that is usually metal and not the one where the connections are, right?
@tech.shit @mr.shiteside thanks for commenting. While trying to film my response, I accidentally fixed it. Turns out, I hadn’t been hitting apply updated configurations. We’re all set
haha nice, I’ve done that to myself a few times too.
Ah cool, happy riding!
Yup if it’s designed properly the metal side is there as a heat sink so that should be the one that gets warm. Can’t guarantee this is always the case (maybe there’s a design where the heat sink warms up a bit, but there’s one exposed component on the other side that gets unusually hot), but like 80% confidence in the answer
