Thanks for everyone being so helpful here. I’ve been using the esk8 calculator to get some good ideas for my first build.
I understand that a higher gear ratio (from the calculator) equals more torque and lower top speed. Is there a guide to knowing what gear ratio provides enough torque for different inclines? Am I approaching this wrong…?
Should I just be trying to make my max speed the number I want with gearing and not worry about the ratio?
There are some calculators that will do hill calculations, but usually if you have a decently powerful setup and no mega-steep hills, you should be fine just ignoring it and going for a simple speed calculation.
(This mostly applies to top speeds of ~25MPH and lower. Going for ludicrous speed will leave you with very little torque.)
Cool. Thanks.
I think I’ll either go with the Torqueboard 6380 or 6374, and I don’t want my top speed over 30 mph with either the TB110’s or Bergmeisters. I’m mostly just worried about not having enough torque with the bergmeisters, but not sure if that’s even something I should consider with these motors.
When using the calculator, what is the difference between max speed and loaded speed? Is loaded speed just what it can output with the average rider weight?
Yes, the loaded speed is calculated taking into account the drop in speed from having a rider on the board - usually ~10-15% difference from the unloaded speed.
My last board had dual 6355s and 6" pneumatic wheels geared for ~27MPH, and it didn’t even seem to notice that hills existed. Oodles of torque at 40 battery amps per side.
As long as you adjust your gearing appropriately, you won’t lose torque going from 110s to bergs - Wheel size only affects torque by changing the final drive ratio with the ground, so as long as you correct for that with the pulleys, it doesn’t matter if your wheels are 2" or 20".
Ugh…feeling like a noob again…
Been trying to charge a pgroup from a Lacroix 10s. Using the charge chip inside a cheapo powerbank. Tried multiple different ones. Can’t get the freaking group over 4.08v. what’s happening? Possible causes? Possible free solutions?
You have a multimeter that can measure current. Have you tried doing so?
How about measuring the unload output voltage of the power banks?
@MysticalDork just did. Found out 2 of em don’t actually charge to 4.2 (gotta love Chinese made) the one in the first pic is from the cheapest of my powerbanks. I just saw the number jitter up for a second. And meter saw the voltage on the chip as variables between 4.05v and 4.21v so I’m hopeful again…after 5 fucking hours
@MysticalDork I’m trying to bring it back for a guy getting into diy. He bought the pack from someone who upgraded their pack. But it came with no bms. Got him to order a smart 100a bms and this is what he sent me when he plugged everything up.
@Cody Yes, much, much, much better 
Only thing I see is that if your balance wires come from nickel that is connected to both a positive and negative cell end, attach the balance wire on the negative side of the cell. Less chance for abrasions to create shorts under vibration because the body of the cell the wire is wrapping around the end of, is at the same electrical potential.
So basically what you want to do is make sure you remember that order of operations matters
And select a top speed, I’d say 28mph (45km/h) to target. As you select your components, try to target that speed for a Loaded Speed in the calulator. Maximize (within reason) your
A) wheel pulley tooth count
B) motor Kv
within reason. For the rest of the parts, try to get the top speed to match.
Common combinations are things like:
Try not to go below 15T for a motor pulley.
If you target a top speed that’s too much higher than you’ll actually use, then you will unnecessarily lose torque and strain your ESC and lose hill climb power and range and reduce reliability.
Does the amp rating not matter on the BMS if you’re not using it for discharge? For example, 30q in 12s should be pulling 75 A continuous according to the calc, is a 12s BMS rated for 60 A good to go if Im only using it to charge?
If you’re bypassing it for discharge, it doesn’t matter if it has a discharge rating of 1A, or 1000.
What gear ratio would you recommend for:
10S / 190kV / ?:? / 110mm for 40-50kmh, rather closer to 40kmh?
I thought of 15T/40T, to not go under 15T, but that still gives me 47kmh weighted… I think I won’t ride faster than 40kmh, are there 42T level pulleys just out of curiosity?
Motor efficiency is around 90%?
On TB110, yes
I got a pretty vague tracking info and my English is meh…
Does this mean it’s in customs at the moment and will eventually pass it, or is it already “busted” and confiscated by them?
Sorry if it’s obvious… “is being held” sounds like it’s just for a short time, the customs check it, and hopefully I wont have to pay once more, right?
yeah its just being held for the moment and will eventually pass through
usps international are awful and mine was stuck in customs for like 2 weeks before moving
Yup, it’s the “Zollabfertigung” to check if you need to pay import/duty fees and or tax etc.
can take a day, or 3 weeks if you are unlucky
