I personally don’t like smart reverse. Does it work correctly in Hyst Reverse mode?
agreed, until I get the best crimping tool out there I’m just going to solder things on from now on. At least I know there’ll be connectivity instead of hoping the wire isn’t floating 0.1um from the terminal
no it works the same in hyst reverse, but using reverse in hyst isn’t what I wanna do, I’ve got so used to smart reverse and I like it. it trips me out to double-tap the brake for reverse. I’ve tried hyst for a couple weeks and I’m just not as big of a fan of it as smart reverse.
On recommendation of others I got the Engineer PA-09 and after only a little bit of use can’t see what the difficulty is.
It’s fiddly, for sure, but not too hard to do.
(for me) it’s way faster and better than soldering for making jst connectors.
Guess I’m just backing up that recommendation if you’re looking for a pair of crimpers.
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Are your motor current settings correct?
On each ESC?
they seem to be, I used the wizard as I usually do and then went through the manual settings to make sure everything got set up properly. seems correct.
On each ESC on the CANBUS? Did you click Read Motor Settings each time you changed ESCs?
yes I did it for both, I left the motor amps values at what the wizard set them to as the battery and VESC can easily handle that much current. my battery is definitely my bottleneck but it can push 100A so I’m not worried.
I’m just gonna do it all over again, usually that fixes issues like this.
Rarely have these values ever been ideal for me.
What are all the current settings? What motors are they?
Boardnamics/Flipsky 6384 170kv
Side1:
77.87A motor max
-60A max brake
Absolute max 100A
Battery max 99A
Battery max Regen -20A
Side2:
72.96A motor max
-60A max brake
Absolute max 100A
Battery max 99A
Battery max Regen -20A
Change Absolute Maximum Current to the highest number it will allow you to set it at.
With battery max so crazy high, I’d use probably 75A for motor max.
But ideally I personally would lower battery max to like 25A and raise motor max to like 110A if the ESC can handle it.
But that isn’t related to the current issue, I don’t think.
On the advanced tab, lower Fault Timeout to 85ms
and change Duty Cycle Current Limit Start to 85% (NOT Maximum Duty Cycle, leave that default)
Would you mind sharing your reasoning for this?
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I just set up ppm over again and the issue went away. Now I’m wondering about the amps, why should I set it to 25A?
Can you please state reasonings for these changes? I don’t want to do anything if I don’t know why I’m doing it.
@GeneParmesan try it and see which you like better.
If you like rip your shoes off torque, try my way. If you are racing and only care about top speeds, try using high battery max and tame motor max settings.
Keep in mind your battery current draw will never exceed 95% of motor max anyway. So at 75A motor max, battery will never exceed 71250mA
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I need a lot of torque to handle the snow, ice & slush covering our roads.
Actually torque causes wheelslip in inclement weather conditions, you want low torque for that
Like in a manual transmission in an old I.C.E. car, you’d shift to a higher gear on snow
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Sure, whatever, I want the right kind of torque whether that’s low end or high end.
So I want more low-end torque, that’s low battery amps and high motor amps?
You can always lower the torque by decreasing the amount of applied throttle though