Yes, the failsafe is an extremely important safety mechanism.
Follow the instructions in the first post exactly as written.
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Without the failsafe, you can see what can happen if you turn your vehicle upside down so the wheels aren’t on the ground, and turn off the remote. Anything the wheels do other than slow to a stop, is extremely dangerous.
That means if you hit a patch of heavy radio interference, your vehicle could go full throttle on you without warning. Or it could go full brake. You can always turn the remote off to see what pulselength the failsafe is currently set to.
oh, then it seems I already have this failsafe covered without doing anything.
I still cannot seem to get those 104% values you’re talking about, I have no idea how
best I can get is -90% to 70%
What is the maximum pulselength that you see in the realtime data when you pull the trigger in? Simply type a slightly smaller number into the “Pulselength End” box.
it doesn’t seem to change anything, I do that, hit apply and it’s showing the exact same percentages as the higher number. and the number seems to reset to the old value as well (1.888)
Don’t use the Apply button, that is some other automagic thing.
Use the Write App Settings button.
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it won’t let me do that in the wizard
Don’t use the wizard.
gotcha, things sure have changed from when I started DIY and everyone said “just use the wizard”
The wizard will work to some degree to just get it working, in a crappy way.
If you want it to work really well, you need to do it manually.
People tell folks to use the wizard because it’s very difficult to actually teach someone to do it the better way.
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okay I got the 104% values in, figured out some of the manual config stuff, but now my motors are being weird on the bench.
using smart reverse (hyst is just weird to me now that I’ve used smart reverse for over a year) and I get both motors to reverse in tandem just fine, but when using the throttle only one spins up for forward. I feel like this has to do with a CANBUS option like the status or something.
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Cool
The Mini itself is easy to use this way, just get a 14500 cell and short out one of the AA slots with a small wire.
You can stick the 14500 cell right into the Mini Remote without further modification.
You can even use a 4.2V li-ion or 3.65V LiFePO4, I’ve used both and they seem to work fine, as long as it’s a 14500 size. The LiFePO4 dies abruptly and the li-ion gives a bit more warning.
This is awesome. I likes the idea of the 18350 sideways as it’s so short, and I could parallel 2 of them for like a week of battery.
For the custom enclosure I’m adding a battery meter too, the current low battery warning is dangerous, as it just cuts out a ton until it’s dead.
If you make a custom enclosure then there’s no reason to not use an 18650 or 21700 form factor.
But the 14500 cells drop RIGHT into the stock Mini. Like, a perfect fit. Just short out one cell holder and stick a 14500 in the other side.
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Not true. For size and dimensions I feel even dual parallel 18350 can pack smaller than a single 18650, depending on the form factor I go with. I haven’t started doing the CAD yet so for now I’m open to any cell, but I’ll settle on whatever fits. Most likely that will be a single 14500 or 18350. I also want to use a battery cradle for replace-ability so that will take up space too.
Instead of shorting out one cell holder, I think you’re better off rewiring the internals and adding in a locking pushbutton to replace the stock power button with something less likely to fail at the worst possible time.
Agreed 100% on swapping the 2x AA for 1x 14500 lithium ion though.
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I’ve discovered if you’re gentle with the stock power switches and gently slide them with your fingernail, they seem to never break.
The moment you don’t use your fingernail and muscle them on and off, they usually end up breaking.
Those switches are definitely the weakest part of the remote.
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I tried to be pretty mindful since you recommended babying the switch, but mine still died in a wacky way after 2 years, would only stay on when the switch was in the middle which made it prone to sliding out of the middle and turning the remote off, got me real good in a race on the first corner.
Edit: it was retired immediately after that race, ran a replacement until I modded all 3 of my minis to button pushbutton and li-ion.
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