Is it coil whine? (once you learn about it you will never be the same about crappy electronics)
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ah really dont think so. I think like @xsynatic mentioned that its standard for hobbywing esc. No problems so far with on this one.
Just was confused about hearing that kind of “noise” from the esc.
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I think it could be an extremely similar effect, because there are voltage stepping components onboard and the lower quality ones of those usually make noise.
The way you worded that response make it sound like you think coil whine would only be with a defective product but nearly all power electronics do this somewhat pretty sure.
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Oh no, that was not meant this way. I know sounds like this from electronics of all kind here and there, just never heard something like this from an esc, but I didnt had so much reference at hand about esc so far, so there is that.
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Thanks gonna go as high as I can
Ordered new wire and connectors coming today and hopefully can get some clean joints done
Will post pics when done
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Go for the higher gear ratio (5.2:1), and then use a higher KV motor / higher voltage battery & ESC to compensate for the speed. The higher the gear reduction, the less work your motors will have to do to give you the same amount of torque. 
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Thank you rusins
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much better than before, but i personally would also add more solder so they also fill to the end of both sides, kinda like a big blob of solder when its done
don’t forget about the heatshrink
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Won’t gonna go on the side as I haven’t put the bullet connector on yet
Just making sure it’s ok before doing the others
Will add a bit more solder
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looks to me like you havn’t pre tinned the wire. this is step one. step two you join the wires together using pliers or alligator crimps. if you try a mesh splice then you’ll need a lot more heat.
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Sadly don’t own any flux at the moment
So trying a mesh splice
Did 400c and solder melted into the wire pretty well
keep applying the heat until the wire soaks up the solder
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You need flux.
For pre tinning wire ends, i apply flux to wire end (without cutting casing) then heat up wire and melt solder onto the end. It wicks up the wire below the casing.
When cool, cut casing back and you have a neatly tinned wire end.
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Thanks gonna order
Will keep applying heat
And hopefully can get a perfect joint soon
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Thanks @PixelatedPolyeurthan @xsynatic and everyone else (can’t remember everyone) got some awesome joints done
Don’t have pics cause I only remembered after I heat shrinked
But they had soaked up a ton of solder
I left the iron on the wire (mesh splice) at 400c for 30sec and then when I pushed in a bit of solder it went straight into the wire
They ended really nice and not much crunch
Thanks again everyone
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quote from spintend topic anyone can give any advice
Better, but still wayyyyy too cold. See the line circled? That means the solder wasn’t hot enough to melt to itself, let alone to the wire underneath.
You want to see that blob of solder all melted all at once, and soaking into the wire strands. You should not see any strands without a coating of solder on/between them.
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I know literally everyone but me says that. But I’ve been soldering without flux for 30 years. I have it, but I never use it. The solder with flux in the middle has always worked enough for me. Maybe this should go in the confessional.
Actually scratch that – when I go to the factory and use the surface mount workstation, I use liquid flux. But not at home.
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Often the flux that is present in the core of decent solder is enough. But that is still flux. I’ve watched people try to do electronics soldering with plumbing solder with zero flux, and it is… painful to watch, to say the least.
(and Halbj’s soldering looks a lot like he’s using plumbing solder. No offense dude, but wow.)
You need at least SOME flux, be it from a pen, a bottle, or the few percent in flux cored solder.
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