Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

That’s a weird one. I have everything plugged like it should on mine (davega and hm10s) and everything works as normal :woman_shrugging:t3:
If it’s a possible thing, thats flipsky I guess

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I think, there was a thread how to set max. battery discharge current, max. battery breaking regen current, max. breaking motor current, but now I can’t find it… Have it anyone saved?

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I would page @b264 in this case :rofl:

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can confirm, that was one of @Algaliarept’s problem before, that RX TX shit is just wrong

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Can’t say I’ve seen this happen but certainly seems possible that after cooling the cell/battery shows a higher voltage than when hot. All cells have some amount of internal resistance and as temp goes up so does resistance, (generally speaking). With batteries since they aren’t just a plain wire resistor they have some ions flowing around there is actually an optimal temperature that is not too cold and not too hot so that the ions are able to flow through the electrolyte more easily (this is my rough understanding). People with RC trucks or quads and the like where we pull tons of amps for short period out of relatively tiny batteries people will make sure batteries aren’t frozen cold in winter by keeping them in the car or by heaters so as to keep the voltage potential up, but I imagine there is the other extreme where a cell is so hot the resistance goes up again.

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You should be able to squeeze in a unity and a discharge only bms at the end.
(TB40 12s8p 50E for reference)

But you’ll need to widen the cutout a bit

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I bought this flipsky one. Wires goes where they go at least to unity.

I plan (well, hope for now) i can fit all p group connections on top with 90° nickel tab bends. In theory 2 cells head to head are 140mm and the cutout is 145. How terrible do i have to be with space management to not be able to fit that pack in? That comment says 5-10mm… with solders on the sides i guess?

It’s gonna be a tight fit but it should work. Might even be fine without widening the cutout if you do the 90° bends and flat copper braid.

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Nah, if you’re using Nese, you’re fine with lugs.

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This covers cutoff voltages

As far as current settings, there are lots of threads actually. Tons of reading

https://forum.esk8.news/search?q=vesc%20settings

If you list your

  • battery geometry (aka “10S5P”)
  • cells used
  • ESC used
  • motor used
  • number of motors
  • gear ratio (1:1 for direct drive)
  • wheel size in mm

Then we can suggest some settings to get you started, you can tweak from there

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Thanks, here is a list.

10S3P (after a few weeks it will be 10S10P)
Sony VTC4 Li-ion
Unity Focbox
Torqueboards 6355 190kV
2
2:57
97mm

does not compute :woozy_face:

How many teeth on the wheel pulley/gear?

How many teeth on the motor pulley/gear?

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Sorry, that should be 2.57:1 :grinning: motor pulley 14 And wheel pulley 36

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After doing motor detections, I’d try:

to get started, and adjust from there. You should get getting somewhere around 27.2mph (43.8km/h) top speed like that.

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Thanks. Also, Isn’t voltage cutoff start and end too small? It should have voltage 2,5V-4,2V

Is it 10S VTC5 cells?

36/10=3.6
32/10=3.2

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2.5v/cell is wanting a deathwish for your pack

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VTC4

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If it’s 10S, those cutoffs should work fine.

Otherwise, stroll on over here:

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